传统服饰凤纹的文化构成及其典型度

凤纹是服饰设计中常用的典型纹饰，而凤纹的形式应当与服饰表达的整体文化内涵相一致。为建立凤纹元素部件与文化寓意的对应关系，并确定各部件特征贡献度（典型度），采用文化构成理论方法并结合40名参试、60个图片样本的李克特量表打分，创建了凤纹文化元素域，提取了“尊贵”、“典雅”、“祥瑞”、“瑰丽”、“生命力”、“恩爱”六类文化元素寓意子域的典型形象；使用较为客观的眼动数据提取了凤纹文化元素典型部件，根据眼动关注时长计算出各文化元素部件的典型度值并排序；量化后的典型度值可以帮助设计人员选择恰当的凤纹形式，应用于仿古与现代服饰品设计。

Cultural constitution and typical degree of phoenix pattern on traditional dress adornment

Phoenix pattern often appears on apparel and accessories. It is very important that the pattern must follow the culture connotation of the clothing. In order to mapping the phoenix pattern parts to culture meanings and calculate the pattern parts’ contribution of characteristics (typical degree), the Cultural Constitution theory was adopted. Firstly, the phoenix cultural elements domain was divided into six parts, named dignity, elegance, luck, beauty, vitality, love. And typical images of each sub-domain were found based on the Likert Scale table constructed by forty volunteers with sixty test samples. Secondly, the typical degree of each phoenix pattern part was calculated and sorted using eye-tracking data. Furthermore, the quantified typical degree could also help designers to choose a suitable pattern for modern apparel and accessories design.