时尚设计纪录片的叙事性与思想性——兼谈时尚批评的话语传播

本文着重围绕以时装设计师为核心人物的纪录片进行影像叙事的特征分析,对比导演对纪录片的整体结构意图和叙事视角,探究时装设计师的设计思想和美学风格与纪录片叙事模式的内在关联;提出叙事性是建构纪实影像档案的风格化呈现,思想性则是片中人物的时尚观念、设计哲学和批评话语的表达;同时观照纪录片所反映的中国时尚发展及其必须面对的批评问题。

The Narrativity and the Ideology in Fashion Design Documentaries:also on the Communication of Fashion Criticism

This paper focuses on the analysis of the characteristics of the documentary film narrative with the fashion designer as the core character,compares the director's structural intention and narrative perspective of the documentary,explores the internal relationship between the fashion designer's design ideas and aesthetic style and the narrative mode of the documentary,and puts forward that the narrative is the stylized presentation based on constructing the documentary files,and the ideological output comes from the character’s fashion ideas,design philosophy and the expression of critical discourse.At the same time,it also focuses on the development of fashion in China and the critical problems it must face.