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单面高低毛圈织物的设计与生产
引用本文:陈绍芳,张并劬,雷励,范德彬.单面高低毛圈织物的设计与生产[J].丝绸技术,2014(1):38-39.
作者姓名:陈绍芳  张并劬  雷励  范德彬
作者单位:成都纺织高等专科学校纺织系,成都611731
摘    要:TSMD型单面电脑毛圈机使用了新型的双沉降片技术,其沉降片为地纱沉降片和双片鼻毛圈沉降片,双片鼻沉降片可以按花纹要求进行选片以编织高毛圈或低毛圈。设计一种以纬平针为地组织及涤纶低弹丝为毛圈纱形成高低毛圈的织物,并使用与TSMD型毛圈机相配套的WACDesigner提花设计软件设计花型,进行生产。结果表明:高低毛圈织物毛圈松软,手感丰满厚实,布身坚牢,弹性、吸湿性、保暖性良好,毛圈结构稳定,高低毛圈形成的图案具有凹凸感、立体感和视觉美感等特点。

关 键 词:毛圈机  双沉降片技术WAC  Designer提花设计软件  毛圈织物

Design and Production of One-sided High and Low Terry Fabrics
Authors:CHEN Shao fang  ZHANG Bingqu  LEI Li  FAN Debin
Affiliation:(Department of Textile, Chengdu Textile College, Chengdu 611731, China)
Abstract:TSMD one-sided computer terry machine uses new double sinker technique. Its sinkers are ground yarn sinker and double nasal terry sinker. Double nasal terry sinker can make selection according to pattern requirements so as to weave high or low terry. This study designs high and low terry fabrics with weft plain stitch as ground texture and polyester drawn textured yarn as terry yarn and uses WAC Designer iacquard design software matching with TSMD terry machine for pattern design and production. The result shows that high and low terry fabrics have a soft terry, firm hand feel, solid cloth, good elasticity, hygroscopicity and heat retention property and stable terry structure. Patterns formed by high and low terry are characterized by concave-convex sense, stereoscopic sensation and visual aesthetic feeling etc.
Keywords:terry machine  double sinker technique  WAC Designer jacquard design software  terry fabric
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