炸酱面与老北京炸酱面史考辨

炸酱面、老北京炸酱面是现代面食中极为普通的一种面条，但它的来历、产生的时代似乎又一时难以说清。通过查阅食学文献，追溯大豆酱、面条、过水面条的产生时代，进而考证了不同历史阶段面条种类的具体食法，尤其是重点廓清了过水投凉面条——“冷淘”的制作与食法，藉此析辨出了冷淘食俗历经千余年传承的核心内容。通过深入考证分析明、清时期都城北京的城市发展、粮食供给结构、气候条件、市民食生活状态等主客观因素，得出了炸酱面、老北京炸酱面为同时代产生的结论。隐含于北京饮食文化中的标志性符号“老北京炸酱面”同时也蕴藏着深刻的文化内涵。

The Historical Study on Old Beijing Noodles with Fried Bean Sauce

Noodles served with fried bean sauce is now an ordinary wheaten food popular among people, but its derivation remains a knot. By consulting documents and tracing the production time of soybean pastes, noo- dles, water cooling noodles, specific ways of eating noodles at different times, especially outlining the ways of producing and eating water cooling noodles, the key dietary custom of cooling food with cold water for over a thousand years is unveiled. Analysis of the subjective factors such as Beijing city development in Qing and Ming dynasties, food supply, climate, people＇ s living conditions comes to a conclusion that Bean Paste Noo- dles and Old Beijing Noodles with Fried Bean Sauce occurred at the same time. The symbolic sign ＂Old Beijing Noodles with Fried Bean Sauce＂ is hidden but rich in profound cultural connotation.