近代齐鲁民间大襟服装的技艺及民俗文化

针对近代齐鲁民间大襟服装及其技艺“挖大襟”进行了研究分析，探讨了与之相关的民俗文化。通过实地考察和民艺采风，结合民俗文献及地方志资料，从民俗和技术角度对大襟单褂“挖大襟”技艺的工艺流程和技术特点进行了研究。对6大工艺流程铰衣身、开大襟、补底襟、挖拓肩、绱领子及后处理逐一进行分析，并部分做了详细图示。在此基础上，总结出相关联的民俗文化内涵：服装实用、简洁与保守的特点反映了齐鲁耕作文化和当地民族性格特征；着装行为和民间禁忌的传承表达了齐鲁人们趋吉避灾及向往美好生活的民俗心理；技艺的高低不仅表达了齐鲁劳动妇女的思想情感，更决定了其在家庭中的地位。

Technique and folk costume culture of side opening clothing in Qilu area in modern times

Side opening clothing and its technique “wa da jin” as well as associated folk custome culture in modern Qilu area were analyzed. Through on-spot investigation in combination with folk documents and annals of local history, the technical process and characteristics of “wa da jin” of single side opening clothing were studied from the perspective of folk costume and technology. Six processes including hinging clothing body, opennings, sewing small lapel, digging extension shoulder, sewing collar and after-treatment were analyzed and illustrated. On this basis, the associated folk cultural connotation was summed up as follows: its characteristics such as practical, concise and conservative reflect Qilu farming culture and the local ethnic character traits. Dress behavior and transmission of folk taboos express folk psychologies of Qilu people that aspire to a better life and avoid calamity. The skill level not only expresses thoughts and feelings of Qilu working women, but also determines its position in the family.