崇武缀做衫的工艺特征

崇武服装在惠安东部沿海地区最具特色与代表性，其结构与缝制工艺蕴涵着当地风土人情，民俗文化的重要内容。本文通过田野调查的形式，以特色鲜明，代表性强的缀做衫为例对崇武服装进行了研究。研究表明，崇武缀做衫采用边裁边缝的传统作业方式，包括面料采购、裁剪、缝制、整烫等基本步骤，结合服装结构特征和缝制工艺特色，分析得出崇武缀做衫“备物致用”的造物观念及“宜简不宜繁，宜自然不宜雕斫”的审美特征,并从镶拼工艺和手工刺绣上体现其社会文化和精神寄托的象征意义。

Technological features of patchwork type tunic blouse in Chongwu

The clothing in Chongwu is the most distinctive and representative units in the coastal areas of Hui’an eastern, and its structure and sewing contain the important content of local conditions and customs，as well as the folk culture in local.This article has reseached Chongwu clothing instancing Zhuizuo blouse with distinctive characteristics and strong representative though field research.The research shows that the Zhuizuo blouse has been cutted while sewed,and it contains the basic steps such as fabrics purchasing,cutting,sewing,ironing,and the main sewing methods are lock stitches, hand hemming, trim and bar tacks.then combined with the structure characteristics and sewing process characteristic of clothing, we can analysis that the Zhuizuo blouse has the creation concept of utility as well as its aesthetic features of advocating minimalist and natural instand of verbose and elaborate carve，in addition，it reflects the social culture and spirit symbolic significance through the seaming process and the manual embroidery.