羊绒/羊毛/涤纶/氨纶混纺纬弹交织面料的织造工艺

为拓展羊绒纤维的应用领域,探讨其产品生产工艺。以羊绒/羊毛/涤纶混纺双股线为经纱,羊绒/羊毛/涤纶/氨纶混纺双股线为纬纱,设计3组不同织造工艺参数织制的纬弹交织面料,采用灰色关联法对面料的物理性能进行分析,得出纬向断裂强力是评判纬弹交织面料性能的重要指标。结果表明:相对较优的织造工艺为开口时间302°、进剑时间65°、送剑时间280°、经停架高度6 mm、后梁高度3.5 mm。为羊绒系列产品的织造工艺设计提供参考。

Weaving process of cashmere/wool/polyester/spandex blended weft elastic interwoven fabric

In order to expand the application field of cashmere fiber,the production technology of its products was discussed.Based on the warp yarns produced with cashmere,wool,and polyester,and the weft yarns produced with cashmere,wool,polyester and spandex,which were both plied yarns,the weft elastic interwoven fabrics were produced with three different weaving processes.Then,the mechanical properties of the interwoven fabric were analyzed with grey correlation and it was found that the weft broken strength was the most important index.The result demonstrated that when the weft broken strength was maximum,the superior weaving process was as follows:shedding time was 302°,the"take"rapier time was 65°,the"give"rapier time was 280°,the stop motion position was 6 mm and the height of the back rest was 3.5 mm.Such a research served a good reference for processing design of cashmere products’development.