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衣下空间体积与服装面料性能的关联性
引用本文:于淼,李俊,王艺霈.衣下空间体积与服装面料性能的关联性[J].纺织学报,2012,33(4):100-105.
作者姓名:于淼  李俊  王艺霈
作者单位:1. 东华大学服装?艺术设计学院 2. 现代服装设计与技术教育部重点试验室(东华大学)
基金项目:国家自然科学基金资助项目(51106022);博士点基金项目(20110075110005,20110075120009);东华大学博士学位论文创新基金项目(BC201038)
摘    要:为了掌握衣下空间体积的规律,本文通过在标准体型人台上依次穿着面料不同、款式相同的服装,运用TC]2 NX-16非接触式三维扫描技术采集点云数据,经过计算机图形处理和对比,立体再现衣下空间的存在,得到衣下空间的整体立体体积,逐步回归得出影响衣下空间的主要面料性能项目,以及这些项目共同作用于衣下空间大小的表达式。衣下空间与服装面料的性能有紧密关联性。衣下空间的大小与硬挺度.抗弯长度、经纱密度呈显著正相关,与悬垂度.波峰夹角均匀度呈显著负相关。该结论对服装的设计制作,尤其是功能防护服装的面料设计,可以起到先期预测并控制的作用。

关 键 词:衣下空间  三维扫描  立体模型  面料性能
收稿时间:2011-05-05

Relationship study between clothing air gap spaces and fabric performances
YU Miao,LI Jun,WANG Yipei.Relationship study between clothing air gap spaces and fabric performances[J].Journal of Textile Research,2012,33(4):100-105.
Authors:YU Miao  LI Jun  WANG Yipei
Affiliation:1,2(1.Fashion·Art Design Institute,Donghua University,Shanghai 200051,China;2.Key Laboratory of Clothing Design & Technology(Donghua University),Ministry of Education,Shanghai 200051,China)
Abstract:In order to master the change rule of the space or air gap layer between fabric performances and wearer′s skin,experiments are carried out by putting on a standard mannequin garments with identical style but different fabrics,and 2 NX-16 three-dimensional body scanning technique is used to collect point clouds data from the mannequin.Through computer graphics processing and comparison,3-D space is displayed,as well as its integral volume.The main fabric performances affecting the space and the expression of their relationships are educed by stepwise regression analysis.The space is closely correlated with fabric performances,i.e.,positively correlated with fabric′s warp density and crest uniformity in drape test,but negatively correlated with crest angle uniformity in drage test.The conclusion can play the role of prediction and control for garment design,especially for the material design of protective clothing.
Keywords:space between clothing and wearer′s skin  three-dimensional scanning  three-dimensional model  fabric performance
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