唐昭陵壁画女装的3D虚拟试衣结构复原北大核心CSCD

唐昭陵保存了初唐时期大量壁画资料,但服装出土实物少,给服装结构的研究带来一定的难度。本文通过对唐昭陵壁画中的女装款式、比例的统计分析,以出现率最高的半臂套装和襦裙套装为研究对象,利用比例换算、CLO3D虚拟试衣实验法测量推算出服装尺寸,并进行试穿实验,复原出服饰结构。通过服装比例比较、可穿性、变形率及压力等评价分析,进一步验证了虚拟复原的可行性。研究得出,壁画中主流款式的服装结构构成形式、服装与身高的比例关系、穿着方法对形态的影响等相关结论,为初唐女装结构与形象研究提供思路与参考。

Structure restoration of female costumes in Tang Zhaoling frescoes by 3 D virtual fitting

The Tang Dynasty costumes are highly representative in the process of China's clothing development. The structure of female clothing in the early Tang Dynasty was influenced by the fashion of the previous dynasty and integrated with Tang Dynasty characteristics. Despite abundant researches on the Tang Dynasty costumes, fabric relics are scarcely excavated and research evidence on the costume size is insufficient, making it difficult to study the structure and restoration of Tang Dynasty costumes. However, a large number of frescoes have been unearthed from Zhaoling, the imperial mausoleum of the early Tang Dynasty. The figures and costumes on the portrayals reveal realistic female clothing styles in the early Tang Dynasty, which has an important reference value for the study of female clothing in the Tang Dynasty. Taking the female costumes on Zhaoling frescoes as the research object, this paper deeply analyzes the characteristics of female costumes in the early Tang Dynasty through the costumes and shapes on the frescoes, speculates the mainstream costume structures in the early Tang Dynasty and tries to display the original appearance of costumes by means of virtual restoration, and to further investigate the attire patterns of the Tang costumes. Due to the absence of accurate data caused by the lack of real costumes, this study implemented an experimental virtual restoration of female costumes of the Tang Dynasty frescoes by analyzing a large number of frescoes in Zhaoling. First, through classified statistic of the styles and detailed shapes of female costumes in the frescoes, this study analyzed and concluded that the dominant styles are banbi (a half-sleeved waistcoat), ruqun (a short jacket worn under a long skirt), W-collar, parallel collar, and variegated skirt. Second, using the human body height as the unit and the human body hepta-sector as the criterion, this study measured and calculated the ratio of human height to longitudinal length of banbi and shangru (jacket), and their sleeves, as well as to longitudinal length of xiaqun (skirt) and its waist. The ratios of the dominant styles are used as the setting for the virtual fitting experiment. Third, this study focused on the two mainstream styles, measured the female costume size through scale conversion and virtual fitting experiments, obtained structural data, and restored and displayed and displays the attire effect after modification by fitting experiments. Finally, through the evaluation and analysis of the costume wearability tests, the deformation rate after dressing and the pressure on each part of the body, this study further verified the feasibility of virtual restoration. By applying virtual fitting technology based on statistics, measurement, proportional analysis, and scale conversion, this study carried out a simulation restoration through the CLO3D fitting system and conducted an experimental study on the restoration degree of costume proportions and the rationality of structure in virtual dressing through precise data analysis. This study concluded that the main costume styles in the frescoes are the banbi with parallel collar, the short ru with narrow sleeves, and high-waisted skirt with multi-piece patchwork. There are two combinations, including the banbi suit and the ruqun suit. The overall wearability of the 3D simulated costume restored according to the scale of the frequently-seen costume styles in the frescoes was within the normal range. However, the deformation rates of the collar, sleeve, and front crotch were relatively high and the position of skirt was easily shifted, mainly because the wearing state was greatly affected by the fabric, movement, and wearing ways. Through the virtual structure restoration of the female costumes in the early Tang Dynasty, this study displayed the three-dimensional effect of the female costumes on the frescoes. And based on the data analysis of the virtual fitting system, this study obtained the important evaluation indexes of costume wearing. From the viewpoint of attire, the rationality and problems of the detailed structure of female costumes in the early Tang Dynasty need further studies and explorations. The analysis results of this study can provide reference for the research on the Tang Dynasty costume structure, and also provide ideas for the design and development of present-day Tang style costumes. © 2022 China Silk Association. All rights reserved.