中国古代首服中的蝉及其符号意义北大核心CSCD

历代首服中装饰物多样,其中蝉纹饰物造型精巧别致,具有独特的符号价值和文化内涵。文章采用文献研究法对蝉符号的历史渊源和寓意进行深层解读和剖析,总结其表现特征;从墓葬出土及绘画中的蝉纹金珰及附蝉首服对蝉的情感表达、含义象征进行归纳、整理。研究表明:蝉是古代中国首服的重要纹饰,并在作为首服纹饰的过程中完成了文化符号、思想符号及民族符号的构建。蝉饰不仅设计巧妙而且品种丰富,无论在佩戴身份还是种类用途都分化明细。其传播原因受官宦权位、雅士情感、黄老学说等因素的影响,体现出纹饰的发展演变与社会文化息息相关。

The cicada in ancient Chinese headgear and its symbolic meaning

The cicada as a part of excellent Chinese traditional culture is often used to decorate crowns, hats, and bronze wares. In addition, cicadas can also be seen in funeral objects and poems, which are inseparable from its auspicious implication. Cicadas symbolize noble and holy conduct and lofty social status. There are many cicada-patterned decorations in the tombs and paintings of different dynasties, which vary in terms of the usage, style, and craftsmanship. The changes in modeling and process not only perfectly display the artistic value of cicadas and the aesthetic taste but also express people' s pursuit of the spiritual world and inner feelings. From the perspective of semiotics, this paper conducts correlation analysis of the historical origin and implication expression of cicadas, the manifestation of the cicada-patterned golden earrings and the cicada headgear unearthed from the tombs and paintings of the past dynasties. This paper also interprets the symbolic embodiment of cicadas in the headgear of each dynasty and excavates the application meaning and symbolic value of cicada culture. The article deeply interprets and analyzes the historical origin and implications of the cicada symbol through literature research method, summarizes and sorts out the emotional expression and meaning symbols of cicadas in the cicada-patterned golden earrings and the cicada headgear unearthed from the tombs and paintings, and summarizes the artistic characteristics of the cicada symbol. The following conclusions are drawn: cicadas are an important pattern decoration in the headgear of ancient China. It has completed the cultural symbol construction of cultural symbol, ideological symbol, and national symbol in the process of being the pattern decorations of the headgear. Many ancient documents have recorded the alias, living environment, and distribution range of cicadas. Cicadas are exquisite in shape and unique in their eating habits, arousing people's pursuit of noble and pure character. At the same time, cicadas can arise people's infinite reverie and understanding of life because of their life course. Cicadas are not only natural creatures, but also emotional sustenance. The cicada-patterned golden earrings also manifest ethnic integration. The combination of cicada-patterned ornaments and the Bu Yao crown shows the mutual influence between Han culture and Xianbei culture. The implied meaning of each cicada is not a single symbolic expression, but a combination of multiple images, interpreting one' s best wishes from a multi-dimensional perspective. Among the paintings and tombs unearthed from the past generations, most of the cicada ornaments were made in the Song and Ming dynasties, which represented power and character. The structural design of cicada-like ornaments is very ingenious and rich in variety, and there are clear classifications whether it is used asan identity of the wearer or for some other purposes. The higher the level, the more refined the cicada crown is, and the materials used are different. For example, the sable-cicada crown is worn by the highest official and is woven with rattan and lacquer. In addition, officials wear the cicada crown to remind themselves to stay awake and restrain their words and deeds even in a high position. The literati wear cicada scarves to cover their hair, and to show their literati identity and noble character. The immortality in Huang Lao's theory is consistent with the image of the cicada'secdysis and rebirth. At the same time, as excellent traditional culture, gold and jade have long become symbols of ethics and morality, with the implied meaning of auspiciousness. The dissemination of the cicada symbol is influenced by the power of officials, the emotions of scholars, and Huang Lao's thoughts, indicating that the development and changes of pattern decorations are closely related to the development of social culture. This paper systematically and deeply collects and sorts out the appearance, performance, and cultural connotation of cicada symbol in the headgear and perceives its artistic image. For officials, the cicada symbolizes power, status, and honest and upright characters. From the perspective of the literati, the cicada symbol represents personal integrity and holiness. For the deceased, the cicada is the carrier of the good wishes of longevity, reincarnationand rebirth. After thousands of years of evolution and development, cicadas have become the source and power of artistic creation and cultural development and reflected people's awe of nature and their thoughts about life. Cicadas present a new look through different carriers such as crowns, scarves, and hairpins, and shows the integrity of officials, the unyielding spirit of literati, and the immortality of the dead. This is an intuitive reflection of the cultural concept that " a picture must be intentional, and the meaning must be auspicious. " This reflects the ancient people's philosophical thinking about life in the face of natural things and also has a guiding significance for the design of contemporary clothing patterns. © 2022 China Silk Association. All rights reserved.