经起花织物花型变化设计与开发

针对经起花组织因综片数和浮长线长度的限制而导致的花型尺寸过小、花型图案的设计受限、抑制反面浮长的接结点易产生露底现象等缺点，通过独特的变化组织结构设计,完成了目标图案的试织。对比设计前后的花型图案尺寸、反面浮长、露底效果、梭口清晰度、样品织物平整度和耐磨性，得出结论：变化组织设计可以数10倍地扩大织物花型尺寸；花型图案设计时的正反面经浮长长度可以任意确定，都可保证地经细腻，而每一根花经的正反面浮长整齐统一且都不超过设定长度；正面露底不明显；梭口清晰；织物纹路清晰，平整度、耐磨性提高。这种设计方法适用于多臂织机上织制具有一定装饰性的大尺寸花型织物。

Variation design and development of patterns of warp figured fabric

In order to overcome the disadvantages that the size of warp figured fabric pattern is usually small,the pattern is limited because of the restrict of harness and float. The connection points which cut off the float of wrong side is easily exposed. In order to overcome these disadvantages , target pattern was completed by unique variation structure design and the fabric was woven. By making comparison between size, float of wrong side, bare grinning effect, shedding clearness, smoothness ,and abrasion resistance of different samples, the paper drew a conclusion: variation weave design can expand the size by dozens of times. the warp float at any length is available without restriction. Fine body warp , uniform (not exceeding set length ) of figured warp is assured. Threadbare isn’t apparent and the shedding is clear during weaving. The fabric has the property of better smoothness and abrasion resistance. The design is suitable for larger size decoration fabric with dobby loom.The industrialization promotion could be carried on later according to research results.