南通色织土布芦扉花布机织复原数据分析和研究

芦扉花布是国家级非物质文化遗产项目——"南通色织土布"中最经典的品种,体现了织造艺人的看家本领。文章通过实地调研、文献查询、数据分析等方法,收集、整理了大量南通色织土布芦扉花布的布样与图片。从织造工艺和织物分析的角度对传统芦扉花布和新式芦扉花布进行分析对比,可以发现两种芦扉花的织造工艺流程和织造各项参数相差并不大,影响其图案的关键是织物组织和色纱排列的巧妙配合。通过分析与试织等方法得出结论,为南通色织土布芦扉花布的传承与发展提供了理论依据,同时对土布的批量生产和创新有一定的借鉴意义。

Analysis on weaving recovery data of Nantong yarn-dyed homespun with reed flower patterns

The cloth with reed flower patterns is the most classic variety in national-level intangible cultural heritage project:“Nantong Yarn-dyed Weaving Homespun”, and it reflects the special skill of the weaving artist. By means of field investigation, literature searches, data analysis and other methods, a lot of fabric samples and pictures of Nantong yarn-dyed weaving homespun with reed flower patterns were collected and collated. By comparing traditional cloth with reed flower patterns and modern cloth with reed flower patterns from the perspectives of weaving process and fabric analysis, it was found that there was almost no difference in weaving process and various parameters between two kinds of cloth with reed flower patterns, and the key which influenced the patterns was ingenious cooperation of textile tissue and colored yarn arrangement. Through analysis and test weaving, the conclusion was drawn to provide theoretical basis for the inheritance and development of Nantong yarn-dyed weaving homespun with reed flower patterns. At the same time, it has some reference significance for volume production and innovation of cloth with reed flower patterns.