近代社会西装流行引发的民众反应——言论与行为

文章以近代民众对于服饰变革的反应与着装行为为研究对象,基于近代文献及各地方志中的史料进行研究。发现当时民众对于西装的态度存在支持、反对和辩证三种类型,其中反对的声音最多;发现民国后期全国各地穿西装者普遍增多,与此同时西服业规模逐步扩大。分析结果显示,采用国货面料制作西装解决了利权外溢的问题,关键在于发展中国民族毛纺织业,价格问题亦会迎刃而解;同时相对长袍马褂而言,穿西装更适合近代国人的工作与生活方式。因而这种"言行不一"的现象实质上反映出,民众对于外来新生事物的审慎态度与近代社会变服的必然性。

Public speech and behavior reaction triggered by suit epidemic in modern society

Based on historical data in modern literatures and local chronicles, the study focuses on modern people’s reaction to costume reformation and dressing behavior. It is found that people mainly take supportive, opposing or dialectical attitude towards suits, and the proportion of people taking an opposing attitude is largest;at the same time, the number of people wearing suits around the country increased during the late period of the Republic of China, and the scale of suit industry was gradually expanded. Analysis results show that making use of domestically manufactured fabrics to produce suits is a solution to the problem of profit spillovers, the key to tackling price problem is developing China’s national wool textile industry;relative to Chinese robes, suits are more suitable for modern Chinese people in respect of work and lifestyle. Thus, the phenomenon of “consistency-lacking actions” essentially reflects people’s cautious attitude towards new things from abroad and the inevitability of costume reformation in modern society.