造微意匠,妙手方圆:从出土宋代丝绸几何纹看宋时丝织品设计观

宋代丝绸对世界丝绸影响深远,几何纹样盛行是宋代丝绸艺术的一大突出特征。文章以出土宋代丝绸几何纹为研究对象,通过数量分析证实其流行程度,经将图形分类汇整获知菱形最为高频;运用黑格尔美学基本观点和索绪尔符号学理论对其展开形式和意蕴解读,发现总体而言纹样形式超越内涵寓意;结合当时历史文化及染织技术背景,探析与时偕行的丝织品设计观,解读其中所包含的精确化规范设计思维、世俗化抽象设计思维、普适化商业设计思维、文人化致用设计思维。研究旨在为当代设计实践提供理论依据。

Exquisite design and weave,ingenious squares and roundels: a study of silk design concept of Song dynasty based on geometric patterns of silk unearthed

The silk in the Song dynasty has a far-reaching effect on the world silk industry. The prevalence of geometric patterns is a prominent feature of the silk art in that era. The geometric pattern of unearthed silk of the Song dynasty was chosen as the research object. Its popularity was demonstrated through quantitative analysis and it was found that lozenge was most frequently used by classifying and gathering the patterns. The forms and implications of patterns were interpreted according to the basic viewpoints of Hegelian esthetics and the theory of Saussure’s semiotics. It was found that the pattern form surpassed the implied meaning generally. In combination of the historical culture and the technical background of dyeing and weaving, the updated design concept of silk fabric was explored. In addition, precision normative design thinking, worldly abstract design thinking and universal commercial design thinking, literary design thinking were interpreted. This study aims to provide theoretical basis for contemporary design practice.