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影响西装翻领服帖度的样板因素
引用本文:周莉,张翎,李彦云. 影响西装翻领服帖度的样板因素[J]. 纺织学报, 2007, 28(5): 100-103
作者姓名:周莉  张翎  李彦云
作者单位:School of Textile and Clothing;Southwest University;Chongqing 400716;China
基金项目:西南大学实验室创新项目
摘    要: This paper is devoted to researching on the turndown lapel collar of suits.The AT-style pattern technology and high end men′s suit manufacture craft are adopted to investigate the pattern factors affecting the lapel fitness of suits,the rising quantity of under line of the collar stand through the experiments of fitting the mannequin′s neck to lapel.Analytical comparison of the lapel fitness is performed in terms of front neck and back neck,etc.Data for evaluation of lapel fitness is collected with the back neck point as starting point,the rising quantity as X axis,and the distance from the turn-over line to the central line of back neck as Y axis.The study showed that a non-linear quantitative relationship exists between the rising quantity of under line and the fitness.

关 键 词:翻领  样板  服帖度  起翘量
文章编号:0253-9721(2007)05-0100-04
收稿时间:2006-09-12;
修稿时间:2006-09-12

Pattern factors affecting the lapel fitness of suits
ZHOU Li,ZHANG Ling,LI Yanyun. Pattern factors affecting the lapel fitness of suits[J]. Journal of Textile Research, 2007, 28(5): 100-103
Authors:ZHOU Li  ZHANG Ling  LI Yanyun
Affiliation:School of Textile and Clothing;Southwest University;Chongqing 400716;China
Abstract:This paper is devoted to researching on the turndown lapel collar of suits.The AT-style pattern technology and high end men′s suit manufacture craft are adopted to investigate the pattern factors affecting the lapel fitness of suits,the rising quantity of under line of the collar stand through the experiments of fitting the mannequin′s neck to lapel.Analytical comparison of the lapel fitness is performed in terms of front neck and back neck,etc.Data for evaluation of lapel fitness is collected with the back neck point as starting point,the rising quantity as X axis,and the distance from the turn-over line to the central line of back neck as Y axis.The study showed that a non-linear quantitative relationship exists between the rising quantity of under line and the fitness.
Keywords:turndown lapel collar  pattern  fitness  rising quantity
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