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动态调湿控温立体针织物拓扑优化设计
引用本文:袁鲁宁,王建萍,张冰洁,张宇婷,姚晓凤. 动态调湿控温立体针织物拓扑优化设计[J]. 纺织学报, 2021, 42(9): 70-75. DOI: 10.13475/j.fzxb.20210305806
作者姓名:袁鲁宁  王建萍  张冰洁  张宇婷  姚晓凤
作者单位:1.东华大学 服装与艺术设计学院, 上海 2000512.东华大学 现代服装设计与技术教育部重点实验室, 上海 2000513.同济大学 上海国际设计创新研究院, 上海 200092
基金项目:国家重点研发计划“科技冬奥”重点专项(2019YFF0302100);中央高校基本科研业务费专项资金项目(2232021G-08);上海市浦江人才计划资助项目(2020PJC001)
摘    要:为研发具有优良动态调湿控温性能的立体针织物,采用双股70 dtex(72 f)的DRYARN?纱线与30 dtex DRYARN?纱线包覆30 dtex氨纶长丝为原料,提出了立体针织物拓扑优化设计方法.通过优化设计各控温单元的排列方式,使控温单元按V字、Y字等斜向错位排列,然后采用单面提花工艺对织物进行局部拉伸与压褶以...

关 键 词:功能性针织物  调湿控温  立体针织物  拓扑几何形态
收稿时间:2021-03-15

Topological optimization design of dynamic moisture and temperature control for three dimensional knitted fabrics
YUAN Luning,WANG Jianping,ZHANG Bingjie,ZHANG Yuting,YAO Xiaofeng. Topological optimization design of dynamic moisture and temperature control for three dimensional knitted fabrics[J]. Journal of Textile Research, 2021, 42(9): 70-75. DOI: 10.13475/j.fzxb.20210305806
Authors:YUAN Luning  WANG Jianping  ZHANG Bingjie  ZHANG Yuting  YAO Xiaofeng
Affiliation:1. College of Fashion and Design, Donghua University, Shanghai 200051, China2. Key Laboratory of Clothing Design & Technology, Ministry of Education, Donghua University, Shanghai 200051, China3. Shanghai International Institute of Design and Innovation, Tongji University, Shanghai 200092, China
Abstract:In order to develop a three-dimensional knitted fabric with excellent dynamic humidity and temperature control, 70 dtex(72 f)×2 DRYARN® and 30 dtex DRYARN® wrapped with a 30 dtex spandex filament were selected as raw materials. The topological optimization design method of three-dimensional knitted fabrics was proposed, where the temperature control units were optimized to be arranged in V-shape, Y-shape and other dislocated arrangement, and a folded sheet structure was created by locally stretching and pleating the fabric by using the single-sided jacquard process. The result show that when the human body is sweating, the inner layer of the folded sheet structure absorbs sweat drops and transfers the moisture to the surface layer for rapid evaporation. When the human body feels cold, the inner air channel stores still air and effectively controls the temperature. The insulation rate of the prepared fabrics is more than 54%, and it has excellent temperature control performance. The overall liquid water transfer capacity is more than grade 3, and the liquid water dynamic transfer performance is good, while maintaining excellent tensile recovery performance. It provides a new idea for the research and development of three-dimensional knitted fabrics for winter thermal sports underwear.
Keywords:functional knifted fabric  humidity and temperature control  3-D knitted fabrics  topological geometry  
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