乱针绣风格写意机绣产品的研发

为改变机绣产品因工艺限制而单调生硬的现状,受乱针绣启发,借鉴点彩派绘画原理,开发了一种可表现写意效果的机绣工艺。通过基点针设计,探究基点针大小、针迹间距及数量对图案塑造的协同作用,经分层分色、灰度处理、针迹排布、组合叠加和色纱绣制进行分层组合,使机绣产品实现具有乱针绣风格的写意效果。研究表明:基点针边长与针迹间距比值以2∶1为界,比值越低图案轮廓越清晰,比值越高越适合表现不同轮廓之间的虚化过渡;单位面积内基点针越小,数量越多,图案明度越低;当基点针大小和数量一定时,针迹间距由小到大,可控制图案由深至浅的自然渐变;60组打样针迹灰度值初步建立了写意机绣针法参数库,可实现各层灰度等级与基点针参数的有效对应,使分层组合设计赋予图案层次感与立体感。

Freehand machine embroidery product development based on random stitching styles

In order to overcome the monotone and rigidity in machine embroidery products due to machine limitations,a machine embroidery technique,which can express freehand brushwork effect,was developed,and inspired by random needle embroidery and the dot color painting principle.Through the design of base unit needle,this paper explores the synergistic effect of the size and number of base unit needle and stitch spacing on pattern shaping.Layered combination through layering color separation,gray-scale processing,stitch arrangement,combination and superposition,and color yarn embroidery was carried out to facilitate products with the freehand effect of random needlework styles.It was found that the 2∶1 ratio of base unit needle side length to stitch spacing leads to the optical results,and that a lower ratio is associated to a clearer the pattern outline,whereas a higher ratio relates to virtual transition between different contours.High density of base unit needle stitches per unit area leads to low lightness of the pattern,and when the base unit needle size and quantity are fixed,the stitch spacing from small to large controls the natural gradual change of pattern from deep to shallow.60 groups of sample stitch gray values preliminarily established the freehand machine embroidery needle method parameter library,which was shown to be sufficient to demonstrate the effective correspondence between the gray level of each layer and the parameters of base needle,creating a layered combination design that gives the pattern a sense of hierarchy and three-dimensional effect.