圆环形织物的织造原理与设计

研究了圆环形仿形织物的织造原理和设计。改造了现有织机的送经和卷取机构,采用纱架送经可满足仿形织物经纱不等长的要求;采用圆台形成型控制辊,既控制织物的卷取,又控制织物的形状结构,形成圆环形机织布,织物的纬纱沿圆台体的母线方向,经纱沿圆周方向。不等纬密仿形织物织造简单,但织物结构不均匀;等纬密仿形织物要求织机的开口机构复杂,纬纱分为与全部经纱交织的长纬和仅与部分经纱交织的短纬,应合理设计纬纱的完全组织循环和短纬在长纬中的分配,以使织物的结构均匀。

Weaving principle and design of the annular shaped woven fabrics

This paper mainly devoted to the weaving principle and design of the annular shaped fabrics.The let-off and take-up mechanisms of the weaving machine were modified.The creel let-off mechanism could meet the requirement of unequal warp yarn length of this fabric.The round table shaped roller was able to control the taking-up of the formed cloth in the loom,as well as the shape and structure of the fabric.The weft yarns went in the direction of the generatrix of the round table shaped roller and the warp ends along its circumference.There were two types of design of annular shaped fabrics: with uneven filling density and with even filling density.The weaving of the fabrics with uneven filling density was simple but it had unevenly distributed structure.Weaving the fabric with even filling density required rather complex shedding mechanism.Its filling yarns were divided into the long picks and the short ones,the former interlaced with all warp yarns,whereas the latter interlaced with only part of the warp yarns.The pick repeat in a complete weave,as well as the distribution of the short picks among the long ones,should be properly designed so as to obtain an even fabric structure.