Chromatographic and colorimetric characterizations of brominated indigoid dyeings |
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| Affiliation: | 1. Department of Pharmacological Medical and Agronomical Biotechnology, University of Science and Technology of Hanoi, Vietnam Academy of Science and Technology, 18 Hoang Quoc Viet, Cau Giay, Hanoi, Viet Nam;2. Plateforme ICAP, Centre Universitaire de Recherche en Santé, Université de Picardie Jules Verne, Avenue Laënnec, 80054, Amiens Cedex 1, Amiens, France;3. EA3900 BioPI, UFR Sciences, Université de Picardie Jules Verne, 33 rue Saint Leu, 80039, Amiens Cedex, France;1. College of Applied Chemistry, Shenyang University of Chemical Technology, Shenyang, 110142, China;2. Department of Chemistry, University of California, Berkeley, CA, 94720, United States;3. Center for Molecular Systems and Organic Devices (CMSOD), Key Laboratory for Organic Electronics and Information Displays & Institute of Advanced Materials (IAM), Jiangsu National Synergetic Innovation Center for Advanced Materials (SICAM), Nanjing University of Posts & Telecommunications, 9 Wenyuan Road, Nanjing, 210023, China;1. Pretreatment and Finishing of Cellulosic Fibers, Textile Research Division, National Research Centre, Scopus Affiliation ID 60014618, El Buhouth St., Dokki, Cairo, 12622, Egypt;2. Chemistry Department, Faculty of Science, Helwan University, Ain-Helwan, Cairo, 11795, Egypt;1. Dipartimento di Matematica e Informatica, Università degli Studi di Cagliari, Italy;2. Dipartimento di Matematica, Università degli Studi di Trento, Italy |
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| Abstract: | The major indigoids constituting modern and archaeological purple pigments produced from molluskan species include, in varying compositions, indigo, 6-bromoindigo, and 6,6′-dibromoindigo. Though woolen Tyrian Purple dyeings produced from these pigments were the most prized and precious of all dyeings in antiquity, a full chromatographic and colorimetric analysis of multi-fibered textiles dyed with these indigoids has not been previously performed. This current study reports on high-performance liquid chromatographic (HPLC) analyses conducted on the indigoid pigments and on woolen dyeings individually produced from them. In addition, comparative colorimetric analyses via reflectance spectrophotometry were performed on standard multifiber fabric swatches, each consisting of 13 different synthetic and natural fibrous materials. Each swatch was dyed with one of the cited indigoids. These colorimetric properties included the Kubelka-Munk spectral curves, color strengths at the wavelengths of maximum absorptions, color coordinates of the CIE L*a*b* and L*C*h* color spaces, and the color differences. Excellent functional correlations were observed among these properties and these relationships should be applicable to similar dyeings on other fabric materials. The results show that filament triacetate and nylon-66 possess the most remarkable color strengths of all the fiber materials investigated in all the dyeings, and of the natural fibers studied, wool possessed the highest color strength and cotton the poorest with all three dyes. Such chromatographic and colorimetric analyses would further our understanding of the colors produced from ancient, and modern, purple-dyed textiles. |
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