Fermentation of cocoa beans: influence of microbial activities and polyphenol concentrations on the flavour of chocolate

BACKGROUND: Spontaneous cocoa bean fermentation is characterised by a succession of microbial activities. Cocoa flavour precursors are developed during fermentation and drying of cocoa beans. Polyphenols and alkaloids contribute to astringency and bitterness of cocoa and chocolate. RESULTS: Population dynamics, metabolite target analyses, and chocolate production were performed for seven independent spontaneous cocoa bean heap fermentations in Ghana. Although the same micro‐organisms were involved in these heaps, carried out at different farms or in different seasons, heap temperatures and microbial metabolite concentrations were different. This could be due to heterogeneity and size of the heaps, but was mainly ascribed to microbial variability. Indeed, differences in microbial activity could be linked with the flavour of chocolates made from the corresponding dried, fermented cocoa beans. Whereas the polyphenol and alkaloid contents of cocoa beans were crop‐ and heap‐dependent, epicatechin and theobromine levels decreased during fermentation due to diffusion out of the bean cotyledons and polyphenol oxidation and condensation. Residual levels were responsible for the degree of bitterness of the final chocolates. CONCLUSION: Differences in microbial activities between different heap fermentations can result in dried fermented cocoa beans and chocolates with different flavour characteristics. Hence, fermentation control may direct the flavour of chocolate. Copyright © 2008 Society of Chemical Industry