三维导湿结构环保针织面料开发与吸湿速干性能评价

为开发环保吸湿速干面料,设计新型三维导湿结构织造变化纬编间隔双面针织物,并结合单面和双面组织,采用天丝和再生涤纶制备9种针织面料。在变化纬编间隔组织下,将天丝/再生涤纶织物同天丝/中空涤纶织物和天丝/杜邦^TMSorona®织物进行对比。通过动态水分传递法与单项组合试验法对各织物进行测试分析,采用模糊综合评价法对各织物吸湿速干性能进行对比。结果表明:通过2种测试方法得到的面料吸湿速干性能优劣排序存在差异;综合分析发现采用18 tex天丝/33.3 tex(96 f)再生涤纶长丝织造的三维导湿结构变化纬编间隔双面织物吸湿速干性能最好;单层织物中,采用纬平针组织织造的天丝/再生涤纶长丝混合针织物吸湿速干性能较好,有潜力应用于绿色环保型运动服装领域。

Development of environmentally friendly knitted fabrics with 3-D moisture conductive structure and performance evaluation on moisture absorption and quick-drying

In order to develop environmentally friendly fabrics with moisture absorption and quick-drying performance, a new 3-D moisture-conducting structure was designed to develop double-side derivative fabrics with knitted spacer structure. Tencel^TM and recycled polyester fibers were used, and 9 different knitted fabrics were experimented on with single-sided and double-sided constructions. Using the derivative knitted spacer structure, the fabric made from Tencel^TM/recycled polyester fibers was compared with the fabric of Tencel^TM/hollow polyester and that of Tencel^TM/DuPont^TM Sorona^®. The fabrics were tested and analyzed by moisture management method and combination tests method. The fuzzy comprehensive evaluation method was used to compare the moisture absorption and quick-drying performance of the fabrics. The results show that two test methods yield different values in the ranking of the moisture absorption and quick-drying properties. Through comprehensive analysis, 18 tex Tencel^TM and 33.3 tex (96 f) recycled polyester filament fabric with 3-D moisture-conducting structure has the best moisture absorption and quick-drying performance. Of the single-side fabrics, the mixed knitted fabrics of Tencel^TM/recycled polyester filament with flat knit structure have excellent moisture absorption and quick-drying performance. These fabrics have the potential to be used in the field of green and environmentally friendly sportswear.