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仿生鸟羽结构针织面料开发与性能评价
引用本文:王建萍,苗明珠,沈德垚,姚晓凤. 仿生鸟羽结构针织面料开发与性能评价[J]. 纺织学报, 2022, 43(4): 55-61. DOI: 10.13475/j.fzxb.20210504907
作者姓名:王建萍  苗明珠  沈德垚  姚晓凤
作者单位:1.东华大学 服装与艺术设计学院, 上海 2000512.东华大学 现代服装设计与技术教育部重点实验室, 上海 2000513.上海市纺织智能制造与工程一带一路国际联合实验室, 上海 2000514.同济大学 上海国际设计创新研究院, 上海 200092
基金项目:中央高校基本科研业务费专项基金项目(2232022G-08);上海市浦江人才计划资助项目(2020PJC001);国家重点研发计划“科技冬奥”重点专项(2019YFF0302100);上海市科学技术委员会“科技创新行动计划”“一带一路”国际合作项目(21130750100)
摘    要:为缩短国内滑雪服研发技术与国外品牌的差距,探讨仿生鸟羽结构对针织织物热湿性能的影响,以便更好地提升国内滑雪保暖裤的穿着舒适性.首先,通过融合仿生学和提花设计手法改变织针成圈方式,根据羽毛微观结构特征开发了8种不同组织结构的仿生针织运动面料;然后,在热阻、保温率、透湿率、透气率和经纬向芯吸高度等单一指标对比的基础上,建立...

关 键 词:结构仿生  鸟羽结构  针织面料开发  灰色近优法  织物热湿性能  滑雪服
收稿时间:2021-05-19

Development and performance evaluation of knitted fabric with bionic bird feather structure
WANG Jianping,MIAO Mingzhu,SHEN Deyao,YAO Xiaofeng. Development and performance evaluation of knitted fabric with bionic bird feather structure[J]. Journal of Textile Research, 2022, 43(4): 55-61. DOI: 10.13475/j.fzxb.20210504907
Authors:WANG Jianping  MIAO Mingzhu  SHEN Deyao  YAO Xiaofeng
Affiliation:1. College of Fashion and Design, Donghua University, Shanghai 200051, China2. Key Laboratory of Clothing Design and Technology, Ministry of Education, Donghua University, Shanghai 200051, China3. Shanghai Belt and Road Joint Laboratory of Textile Intelligent Manufacturing, Shanghai 200051, China4. Shanghai Institute of International Design & Innovation, Tongji University, Shanghai 200092, China
Abstract:In order to improve the wear comfort of domestic ski warm pants and shorten the gap between domestic ski wear research and development technology and foreign brands, the effect of bionic bird feather structure on the thermal and wet properties of knitted fabrics was investigated. Eight types of bionic knitted fabrics with different structures were developed according to the microstructure characteristics of feathers by combining bionics and jacquard design techniques. Based on the comparison of thermal resistance, heat preservation rate, moisture permeability, air permeability and warp and weft core suction height, the gray near-optimal matrix was established to further evaluate the thermal and wet properties of the fabrics. The application suggestions of each fabric were put forward based on the thermal and wet map of male lower extremities. The results show that groove-like type Ⅰ, bionic feather sheet fabrics have good water absorption, and bionic feather twig, bionic pinnule, and groove-like type Ⅱ fabrics have excellent warmth retention. The air permeability of hollow bubble-like type Ⅰ and type Ⅱ fabrics is outstanding.
Keywords:bionic structure  bird feather structure  knitted fabric development  gray near-optimal method  fabric thermal and wet property  ski wear  
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