| Abstract: | This first in a series of articles characterized the different varieties of Indian silk for their macrostructural parameters, such as filament length, degumming loss, denier, cross section, moisture regain, and intrinsic viscosity, for example. The results of amino acid analysis using a reverse‐phase technique were also reported. Five Indian silk varieties—two mulberry (bivoltine and crossbreed) and three nonmulberry (tasar, muga, and eri)—were investigated. The differences existing between the different varieties and the extent of lengthwise variations within a cocoon in the dimensional and macrostructural parameters were discussed. It was observed that denier of the filament decreases considerably from the outer to the inner layers, whereas density showed an increasing trend in all the varieties. Both the mulberry silks demonstrated lower moisture regain. Electron micrographs of all the nonmulberry varieties showed microvoids in their cross section. Fraction studies showed the development of mushroom structure on the tips. In both types of mulberry silk, glycine, alanine, and serine constitute about 82% of the amino acids present. On the other hand, in nonmulberry silks, these constitute about 73% with a high proportion of alanine. The nonmulberry varieties showed a substantial proportion of amino acids with bulky side groups. Similarly, the higher hydrophilic to hydrophobic amino acid ratio (9.06–9.85) for nonmulberry silks, compared against that of the mulberry varieties (5.29–6.22), was shown to be responsible for the higher moisture content of nonmulberry silks. Cystine and methionine were present in all the varieties. The higher intrinsic viscosity of nonmulberry varieties suggested their higher molecular weight. Through amino acid analysis, it was shown that there is no difference in chemical architecture between the outer and the inner layers of cocoons. © 2004 Wiley Periodicals, Inc. J Appl Polym Sci 92: 1080–1097, 2004 |
