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真丝绸面料的风格整理技术研究
引用本文:翁艳芳,吴岚,钱士明,王晓芳. 真丝绸面料的风格整理技术研究[J]. 丝绸, 2011, 48(4)
作者姓名:翁艳芳  吴岚  钱士明  王晓芳
作者单位:达利(中国)有限公司研发中心,杭州,311231
基金项目:杭州市重大科技创新项目(20083211A24)
摘    要:为了改善真丝绸面料的外观、手感和服用性能,通过Airo气流整理机、平幅打风机、橡毯预缩机等设备,尝试用机械柔软整理代替化学柔软整理的方法,开发少用甚至不用化学助剂的真丝绸面料。通过对悬垂性、弯曲性、拉伸性和表面滑爽性等技术指标的测试,发现物理机械整理、物理机械与化学整理相结合的方法均能够达到甚至超过化学整理的效果,减少了对环境的污染。

关 键 词:风格整理  气流整理  悬垂系数  弯曲刚度  真丝绸  表面粗糙度  

Research on the style finishing technology for silk fabrics
WENG Yan-fang,WU Lan,QIAN Shi-ming,WANG Xiao-fang. Research on the style finishing technology for silk fabrics[J]. Silk Monthly, 2011, 48(4)
Authors:WENG Yan-fang  WU Lan  QIAN Shi-ming  WANG Xiao-fang
Affiliation:WENG Yan-fang,WU Lan,QIAN Shi-ming,WANG Xiao-fang(Research Center of High Fashion International Limited,Hangzhou 311231,China)
Abstract:In order to improve the appearance,hand feel and wearable property of the silk fabric,the physical and mechanical finishing was tried to replace the chemical finishing to make the silk fabrics soft.In this paper,some new machine was used to finish the fabric,such as the airflow finish machine called Airo,the rubber blanket preshrinking machine,etc.Processes with no or little dosage of chemical agents were developed.The fabric style was tested.And the parameters of the draping property,bending ability,stretc...
Keywords:Style finish  Airflow finish  Drape coefficient  Bending rigidity  Silk  Surface roughness  
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