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Application of Coffee Silverskin in cosmetic formulations: physical/antioxidant stability studies and cytotoxicity effects
Authors:Francisca Rodrigues  Carlos Gaspar  Ana Palmeira-de-Oliveira  Bruno Sarmento  M Helena Amaral  M Beatriz P P Oliveira
Affiliation:1. REQUIMTE, Faculty of Pharmacy, University of Porto, Porto, Portugal,;2. Fourmag Lda, Parque Industrial do Cruzeiro, Moreira de Cónegos, Portugal, franciscapintolisboa@gmail.com;4. CICS-UBI – Health Sciences Research Centre, Avenida Infante D. Henrique, University of Beira Interior, Covilh?, Portugal,;5. Labfit-HPRD:Health Products Research and Development Lda, Avenida Infante D. Henrique, Health Sciences Faculty, University of Beira Interior, Covilh?, Portugal,;6. INEB – Institute of Biomedical Engineering, University of Porto, Porto, Portugal,;7. Department of Pharmaceutical Sciences, CESPU – Institute for Research and Advanced Training in Health Sciences and Technologies, Instituto Superior de Ciências da Saude-Norte, Gandra-PRD, Portugal, and;8. Department of Drug Sciences, Faculty of Pharmacy, University of Porto, Porto, Portugal;9. REQUIMTE, Faculty of Pharmacy, University of Porto, Porto, Portugal,
Abstract:Context: Currently, there is an increasing interest of cosmetic industry on natural extracts. The inclusion of antioxidants in topical formulations can contribute to minimize oxidative stress in the skin, which has been associated with aging. Also, questions of sustainability are leading to the study of new cosmetic ingredients obtained from food by-products. Coffee Silverskin (CS) is a food by-product with established antioxidant activity that has not yet been incorporated into a topical formulation.

Objective: The aim of this study was to evaluate the physical and microbiological stabilities and antioxidant activity of a hand cream formulation containing 2.5% (w/w) of CS extract upon production and after 6 months of shelf-life and in vitro safety/cytotoxicity on skin cell lines after production.

Materials and methods: The in vitro cytotoxicity was evaluated with MTS and LDH assays, at different concentrations, in HaCaT and HFF-1 cells. Formulations were stored at 25?°C/65% RH and 40?°C/75% RH. Physical, microbiological, and antioxidant stabilities were evaluated by centrifugation, viscosity, total colony count, DPPH and total phenolic content (TPC).

Results: The hand cream containing 2.5% (w/w) of CS extract showed stable physical characteristics independently of the storage conditions. The DPPH activity and TPC of the CS formulation were significantly higher compared with those of the base formulation. However, during storage, the antioxidant activity decreases slightly. Microbiological quality was also confirmed. No cytotoxic effects were observed.

Conclusion: It is possible to suggest that this formulation is stable under extreme conditions and safe for topical use.
Keywords:Dermocosmetic  fibroblast  in vitro cytotoxicity  keratinocytes  LDH  MTS  topical formulation
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