缝制工艺对羽绒服样板设计的影响

为设计出更好的羽绒服样板,本文从羽绒服样板设计入手,通过制作羽绒服试样并测量不同缝制工艺情况下的试样尺寸变化,分析直线绗缝工艺、曲线绗缝工艺、抽缝工艺和无缝压胶工艺等各个缝制工艺对羽绒服样板设计的影响。结果显示:纵向绗缝工艺、横向绗缝工艺、曲线绗缝工艺对成品规格尺寸的影响不同;平行于绗线的尺寸缩率小,垂直于绗线方向的尺寸缩率大,绗线间的距离越小,缩率越大,反之缩率越小;样板设计时必须考虑绗缝工艺产生的缩率;无缝压胶工艺对样板设计的影响同绗缝工艺。

Influence of Sewing Process on Jacket Model Design

In order to design a better jacket model,this paper starts with the jacket model design,analyzes the width change of the sample under different sewing processes by making the jacket design sample,and analyzes the quilting process,the curve quilting process,the sewing process and the seamless gluing process influence on the design of the jacket model.The result shows that the longitudinal quilting process,the lateral quilting process,and the curve quilting process have different effects on the size of the end product;the size reduction paralleled to the line is small,the size shrinkage perpendicular to the line direction is large;and the smaller the distance between the turns,the larger the shrinkage rate,and the smaller the shrinkage rate.The shrinkage rate generated by the quilting process must be considered in the design of the template;the effect of the seamless gluing process on the design of the model is the same as the quilting process.