基于放松量设计的女装企业基础版型研究

采用立体裁剪方法对女装企业基础版型进行实验研究,针对女性人体体型的影响因素,强调版型与人体之间的适用性和合体性,将归、拔、推等难以操作的制作工艺融入结构线造型中,并与平面制板方法进行比较.在数据测量和经验分析的前提下,确定与企业定位相一致的两类合体风格的衣身版型：一类包含有6cm的放松量;另外一类包含12cm的放松量.结果表明,为建立女装企业基础样板提供了技术支持,有利于企业在服装版型方面形成稳定的风格,适应女装款式更新周期短,批量小的生产模式.

Study of woman garment basic pattern based on ease allowance

The draping was employed in the experiments of woman garment basic pattern.As it is very important to consider whether the garment pattern is applicable and fit to the body shape while building woman garment basic pattern.To merge certain techniques such as pushing,shrinking and stretching which were difficult to operate into the design of the structure line in the garment basic pattern,and compared with the traditional design method.Based on the measurements and experience,two types of basic template Ⅰ and Ⅱ consistent to the brand positioning were identified,which contain a ease allowance of 6cm and 12cm respectively.The study provids technical support for built up industrial base of template for women′s wear,the output of the research benefits the industry in keeping consistency between garment pattern for a specific brand,adapt to the short-cycle and small-lot manufacturing model.