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采用现代工艺的传统风格夏布开发
引用本文:于红梅,郁崇文.采用现代工艺的传统风格夏布开发[J].纺织学报,2016,37(5):37-41.
作者姓名:于红梅  郁崇文
作者单位:1. 江西服装学院,江西南昌,330201;2. 东华大学纺织学院,上海,201620
基金项目:国家麻类产业技术体系建设专项资金资助项目(CARS-19)
摘    要:为了减少传统夏布织造的人工投入、降低生产成本、缓解对传统手工艺人技术依赖程度,降低生产成本,提高质量,用环锭纺苎麻纱和剑杆织机进行传统风格夏布的制作。结果表明: 采用现代工艺,经纱选用普通的线密度为27.8tex的环锭纺苎麻纱,纬纱采用线密度为90.9tex的传统手工拈绩纱,用剑杆织机可织造出具有传统风格的夏布;现代工艺织造的夏布生产成本仅为传统生产工艺的三分之一,幅宽可以达到150cm,其幅宽与布面质量稳定、布边笔直、表面平整;对应用现代工艺织造的夏布风格和性能的测试结果显示,其外观风格、力学性能保留了传统夏布的特征。

关 键 词:传统风格夏布  剑杆织机  织造工艺  手工拈绩纱  环锭纺苎麻纱  
收稿时间:2015-03-31

Grass cloth with traditional characteristic produced by modern technology
Abstract:Ring spun ramie yarn and rapier-loom are used to produce grass cloth, imstead of traditional hand-made yarn and hand-loom, for the purpose of decreasing the labor cost and increasing the production dfficiency as well as improving the fabric quality. With 27.8 tex ring spun ramie yarns as warp yarns 90.9 tex hand-made traditional yarns as weft yarns, the grass cloth with traditional characteristic can be produced by modern rapier looms. Compared with the fabric made by traditional way, the grass cloth produced by this modern method has smooth and straight edge and surface, the production cost is only 1/3, and the fabric width can be widen up to 150cm. The comparison and test results show that the features of traditional hanmade grass cloth, such as appearace and mechanical performance can be reatined in the grass colth woven by modern technology.
Keywords:grass cloth with traditional characteristic  rapier loom  weaving process  hand-made traditional yarn  ring spun ramie yarn
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