经编成形服装装袖工艺设计影响因素分析

 针对经编成形服装袖子的缺陷，本文首次提出经编成形服装采用装袖结构，并对其装袖工艺进行了研究。通过测量9种具有代表性的贾卡组织在不同机上牵拉密度下的成品密度，分析成品密度变化规律，揭示装袖工艺设计的影响因素。研究认为：成品密度是影响经编成形服装衣袖部位尺寸的主要因素；织物成品密度与机上牵拉密度存在着显著的线性关系；牵拉密度相同时，织物成品横密及纵密随贾卡组织的变化而变化。本文揭示了基于密度参数的经编成形服装装袖工艺设计与样板尺寸之间的定量关系，为装袖工艺的快捷设计提供指导。

Factors influencing set-in sleeve techniques for warp knitting shaping garments

In dealing with the sleeve’s defects of warp knitting shaping garment, the techniques of applying set-in sleeve in warp knitting shaping garment will be firstly brought out, and the theory of set-in sleeve in warp knitting shaping garment will also be deeply researched in this thesis. This thesis revealed factors that influencing the set-in sleeve techniques through measuring and analyzing the density of 9 representative jacquard in the different stretching density. According to this thesis, the density is the main factor that influencing the size of sleeve; the density of the fabric together with stretching density are highly related; with the same stretching density, the fabric’s density would change tighter with the change of jacquard. In this thesis, the quantitative relation of set-in sleeve techniques basing on density and size would be released, which would give some guidance to the effective design of set-in sleeve techniques.