AN IMPROVED NUMERICAL METHOD FOR CALCULATIONS IN WAVE KINEMATICS

The prediction of wave kinematics is a necessary basis for ocean engineering design. In this article, an improved method to calculate the wave kinematics especially in the crest region is presented. This method is based on the local approximation method. According to one measured wave surface, the proposed solution focuses on a Fourier series expansion in a somewhat larger segment of the wave surface record. The horizontal and vertical kinematics under the wave crest can be directly predicted. Good agreement between the numerical results and the theoretical Stokes waves verifies the validity of the numerical model. The effectiveness of the numerical method is also proved by the calculation of the wave kinematics of the laboratory focused wave groups.