染整加工后自卷曲丝结构的变化及其织物弹性

为探究不同PTT/PET自卷曲长丝织物在后整理中的表现及其最终成品的弹性性能,选用3个厂家生产的PTT/PET自卷曲长丝试织织物,并在相同工艺条件下进行染整处理,再与氨纶织物进行对比,得到4种织物的质量损失率、纬向染缩率、弹性伸长率、弹性回复率。结果表明:单丝纤度越大,质量损失率越小,染色率越大;织造密度越大,质量损失率越小;弹性伸长率越大,弹性回复率越小。通过光学显微镜、扫描电镜观察及DSC辅助分析发现,PTT/PET复合丝由于单丝比较细,比表面积大,在染整处理过程中受到碱液腐蚀过大而发生2种组分分离的现象,从而失去了双组分丝应有的高弹性。

Structure change of self-crimping bi-component filament after dyeing and finishing process and its elasticity

The purpose of this study was to investigate the apparent performance of different self-crimping bi-component filament fabrics during finishing and the elasticity of their end-products. Therefore, three kinds of PTT/PET self-crimping bi-component filaments made in different factories were woven, dyed and finished under same process conditions and then compared with polyurethane fiber fabric. The weight reduction rate, weft shrinkage, elastic elongation and elastic recovery percentage of the above four kinds of fabrics were obtained.The results indicated that with the increase of DPF, the weight reduction rate decreases but the weft shrinkage increases. The weight reduction rate decreases as the fabric count increases. The elastic recovery decreases as the elastic elongation increases.Optical microscopy, scanning electron microscopy and differential scanning calorimetry (DSC) examinations showed that due to the finer DPF and larger specific surface area, one kind of PTT/PET filament exhibited separation of the two components resulting from caustic corrosion during the process of dyeing and finishing and hence the high elasticity inherent in bi-component filaments was lost.