组织结构对涤纶经编织物卷边性的影响

为减少织物卷边对后道工序带来的影响，对各把梳栉的组织结构配置以及牵拉密度的选择进行了探讨。以55.5 dtex 24 f涤纶全牵伸丝(FDY)为原料，生产出7种不同组织和4种不同牵拉密度的两梳经编织物，对其卷边量进行测试，并结合显微镜下的线圈图进行分析。结果表明：随着牵拉密度的增大，经编织物横、纵向卷边量均不断减小，其中牵拉密度对横向卷边的影响要明显大于纵向卷边；两梳同向编织的织物横向卷边性要明显好于反向编织；当前梳组织不变，增加后梳延展线长度时，织物的横、纵向卷边量均不断减少，尤其是横向卷边量下降明显；而当后梳组织不变，增加前梳延展线长度时，织物的横、纵向卷边量均不断增加。

Influence of structures on curling performance of polyester warp-knitted fabric

For reducing the impact of fabric curling on downstream processing, the organization of different structures and the choice of draw off densities were discussed in this paper. 55.5 dtex 24f fully drawn polyester yarn was used to produce two guide bar warp-knitted fabrics with seven different structures and four different draw off densities. Then curling distances were tested and the curling reasons were analyzed through the microscope. The results showed that with the increase of draw off density, the wale and course-wise curling distance of fabric are decreased, and the effect of draw off density on course-wise curling distance is significantly greater than that of wale-wise;The course-wise curling distance of two guide bar with same direction lapping is better than that of reverse lapping; When the structure of the first guide bar remains unchanged, the wale and course-wise curling distance of fabrics, especially the course-wise curling, decrease with increasing underlap of the second guide bar; However, the wale and course-wise curling distance of fabrics increase with increasing underlap of the first guide bar when the structure of the second guide bar remains unchanged.