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涤纶异染混纤纱的生产工艺及其性能
引用本文:占海华,姚江薇.涤纶异染混纤纱的生产工艺及其性能[J].纺织学报,2017,38(1).
作者姓名:占海华  姚江薇
作者单位:绍兴文理学院 纺织服装学院,浙江 绍兴,312000
摘    要:为开发新型差异化的涤纶混纤纱,以167 dtex/96 f全拉伸丝及350 dtex/96 f半预取向丝为原料,利用独特的三角拨丝后加工技术使半预取向丝纵向不均匀牵伸,并通过网络喷嘴使牵伸后的半预取向丝和全拉伸丝2种长丝复合混纤,形成了具有独特纵向异染效果和卷曲蓬松形态的400 dtex/192 f混纤纱。测试了全拉伸丝、半预取向丝和混纤纱的形态结构和染色效果。结果表明:混纤纱内的纤维呈圆柱形,纤维间粗细不同,纤维纵向也存在粗细变化;混纤纱纵向取向度不均匀,差异较大;混纤纱染色后纵向颜色深浅不同,纱条紧密处颜色较浅,蓬松处颜色较深,外观卷曲蓬松;混纤纱的断裂强度高于半预取向丝,低于全拉伸丝。

关 键 词:全拉伸丝  半预取向丝  涤纶混纤纱  异染

Producing process and performance of differentially dyeable mixed polyester yarn
ZHAN Haihua,YAO Jiangwei.Producing process and performance of differentially dyeable mixed polyester yarn[J].Journal of Textile Research,2017,38(1).
Authors:ZHAN Haihua  YAO Jiangwei
Abstract:To develop new differential polyester mixed yarn, 167 dtex/96 f full drawn yarn and 350 dtex/96 f medium oriented yarn were used as raw materials,the unique cam filament?stricking post processing technique was used to draft medium oriented yarn longitudinally unevenly, and the drawn medium oriented yarn and full drawn yarn were mixed together by network injector, forming bulky and differentially dyeable along its longitudinal direction yarns with fineness of 400 dtex/192 f. The morphology, structure and dyeability of full drawn yarn, medium oriented yarn and mixed polyester yarn were tested. It is shown that the fiber in the mixed fiber yarn was cylindrical, and the fibers are different in linear density. Thickness also changes in the along the fiber longitudinal direction. The longitudinal orientation of mixed polyester yarn is uneven, and the difference is great. The longitudinal color depth of mixed polyester yarn is different after dyeing, the color of tight part of the yarn is light while color of fluffy part is deep, and the yarn looked curly and fluffy. The tensile strength of the mixed polyester yarn is higher than that of the medium oriented yarn filament and lower than that of the full drawn yarn filament.
Keywords:full drawn yarn  medium oriented yarn  mixed polyester yarn  differential dyeability
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