针织服装面料缝制工艺参数的确定

缝制作为服装生产中的重要工艺过程，缝纫质量控制难度大，受到许多因素的影响，必须充分了解面料性能，合理选择缝纫设备，优化配置缝纫工艺才能达到最优的缝制质量。目前在服装加工中，缝制加工工艺的确定主要是依靠经验，其结果易受到环境和选定者主观态度等因素的影响，具有很大的模糊性。针对不同服装针织面料进行相关测试和试验并根据面料的物理测试结果对面料进行分类，可运用DPS数理统计软件和正交设计助手对缝口拉伸回复率试验结果、缝口缩皱试验结果、缝口接缝强力试验结果进行分析，以Y1面料为例，研究各类针织面料缝制工艺参数优化组合的确定方法，可以为服装企业针对不同针织面料快速选择合理的缝制工艺参数提供方法和依据。

Determination of sewing parameters for knitted fabric

Abstract： As an important garment production process, the sewing quality control is relatively difficult to be managed because it is affected by many factors. In order to achieve optimal sewing quality, it is necessary to fully understand the fabric performance, a reasonable choice of sewing equipment, and the optimal setting of the sewing parameters. In current garment processing, the parameters of sewing process are mainly determined by the experiences, and the results are susceptible to environment and affected by evaluators’ subjective attitude. As a result, it is lack of authority and shows uncertainty. The current study tested different knitted fabrics by classifying them as several categories based on the results of the fabric physical tests. The testing results of the seam tensile recovery rate, the seam smoothness, and the seam strength were analyzed by the DPS statistical software and orthogonal design assistant. Fabric Y1 was taken for an example to study a method of determination of the optimal sewing fabric parameters. It can therefore provide the apparel enterprises an advantageous method and basis for selecting sewing production process parameters in a rational and scientific way.