斜向分割线在现代旗袍结构中的应用

为拓展旗袍结构设计思路,以分割线为切入点,选择具有代表性的无袖旗袍作为研究对象,对斜向结构线在旗袍中的应用进行研究。设计了2种同尺寸的旗袍结构,设已有的斜裁制版方式为对照组,调整分割线所含省量的结构为实验组;每组结构均以2种不同的丝向(垂直和45°斜向)进行裁剪,并制作4款样衣。通过对比4款样衣的人台着装效果证实:调整后的旗袍腰部贴合度更好,但整体流畅度有待提高;竖直丝向裁剪的服装弹性较好,但衣片宽度较宽,对面料幅宽有较高要求;经进一步分析样本优劣,得出每种制版方式和裁剪方式的适用情况,并总结出斜向分割线应用于旗袍的设计规律。

Application of oblique split lines in modern cheongsam structure

In order to innovate structural design of cheongsam, representative sleeveless cheongsam was selected as the research object based on the split line to study the application of oblique structural line in cheongsam. In this paper, two types of cheongsam structures of the same size were designed. The existing oblique cut plate making method was set as the control group, and the structures with different dart sizes in the adjustment line were set as experimental group. Each group of structure was cut in two different directions (vertical and 45 degree oblique), and 4 samples were made. By comparing the dressing effect of the sample clothes, it is proved that the adjusted cheongsam has a better fitting at the waist, meeting the requirement of flat figure fitting for cheongsam. In addition, the vertical cut clothing show better elasticity, but require wider fabric width. Through further analysis of the advantages and disadvantages of the four samples, the applicability of the samples is obtained, establishing the rules for using the oblique split line in cheongsam design.