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方格立衬结构机织物的一次成形设计实践
引用本文:马颜雪,王世娜,李毓陵,温润. 方格立衬结构机织物的一次成形设计实践[J]. 纺织学报, 2020, 41(6): 42-47. DOI: 10.13475/j.fzxb.20190400806
作者姓名:马颜雪  王世娜  李毓陵  温润
作者单位:1.东华大学 纺织学院, 上海 2016202.东华大学 纺织面料技术教育部重点实验室, 上海 201620
基金项目:国家自然科学基金项目(71704021);国家重点研发计划项目(2017YFB0309200)
摘    要:为解决传统羽绒制品通常存在绗缝处保暖性差、绗缝劳动成本高等问题,设计一次成形方格立衬结构机织物,通过设置合理的组织结构和上机参数,可实现一次成形织造,缩短了生产流程、降低成本且减少浪费。一次成形方格立衬结构机织物的经向立衬高度,可根据实际羽绒制品的厚度需求进行改变。研究结果表明:机织物下机后的实际方格尺寸与设计的方格立衬结构一致,立衬高度达1.5 cm,可以满足羽绒制品的规格要求;一次成形方格立衬结构机织物制成绒包的保暖性是传统绗缝制成绒包保暖性的2倍,充绒空腔的纬浮线结构对填充物能够起到一定的固定作用。

关 键 词:方格立衬结构  机织物  一次成形  羽绒制品  保暖性  
收稿时间:2019-04-01

Research on design and practice of integral woven fabrics with square lining structure
MA Yanxue,WANG Shina,LI Yuling,WEN Run. Research on design and practice of integral woven fabrics with square lining structure[J]. Journal of Textile Research, 2020, 41(6): 42-47. DOI: 10.13475/j.fzxb.20190400806
Authors:MA Yanxue  WANG Shina  LI Yuling  WEN Run
Affiliation:1. College of Textiles, Donghua University, Shanghai 201620, China2. Key Laboratory of Textile Science & Technology, Ministry of Education, Donghua University, Shanghai 201620, China;
Abstract:In view of the shortage of traditional quilted down products, a square lining structure fabric was designed. With proper structure design and weaving parameter settings, this special square lining structure fabric had been integrally woven on the machine, shortening the production process and reducing cost and material waste. Height of the square lining structure was variable according to the down product requirements. Weaving practice indicates that size of the square lining structure after weaving is the same as the designed structure, and the actual height is 1.5 cm, satisfying demands of down products in the market. Results also present that the heat retention of down with the square lining structure doubled that with sewing structures, and the weft floats in down filling areas could prevent filled down feather moving.
Keywords:square lining structure  woven fabric  integral design  down product  heat retention property  
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