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论“反时尚”服装设计中的逆向思维与表达
引用本文:赵子凝,张成义.论“反时尚”服装设计中的逆向思维与表达[J].服装设计师,2022(2).
作者姓名:赵子凝  张成义
作者单位:青岛大学纺织服装学院
摘    要:“反时尚”是一种非常重要的设计理念,在当下时尚界中形成了一股正流行的风格,在与主流时尚相反的方向上掀起愈来愈大的热潮。“反时尚”现象的产生给设计师及大众带来了对于时尚本身新的思考和思路,它暗含着设计师的一种打破常规且挑战权威的逆向设计思维。本文通过阐释“反时尚”设计理念、解读“反时尚”现象,探讨“反时尚”服装中的逆向思维,并结合“反时尚”风格服装设计师山本耀司、川久保玲、马丁·马吉拉以及其他应用案例,进一步探析逆向思维在“反时尚”服装造型、色彩与材质三方面中的具体表达。从而明晰“反时尚”中逆向思维设计的主要方法及其本质,为“反时尚”服装设计的发展提供一些新思路。

关 键 词:反时尚  逆向思维  设计思维  服装设计

On Reverse Thinking and Expression in"Anti-Fashion"Fashion Design
Zhao Zining,Zhang Chengyi.On Reverse Thinking and Expression in"Anti-Fashion"Fashion Design[J].Fashion China,2022(2).
Authors:Zhao Zining  Zhang Chengyi
Abstract:"Anti-fashion"is a very important design concept,which has formed a popular style in the current fashion industry,and it has set off an increasingly popular trend in the opposite direction to mainstream fashion.The emergence of the"anti-fashion"phenomenon has brought new thinking and ideas to fashion itself to designers and the general public.It implies a designer's reverse design thinking that breaks the rules and challenges authority.This article explores the reverse thinking in“anti-fashion”apparel by explaining the“anti-fashion”design concept and interpreting the“anti-fashion”phenomenon,combined with“anti-fashion”style clothing designer Yohji Yamamoto,Rei Kawakubo,Martin Margiela and Other application cases further explore the specific expression of reverse thinking in the"anti-fashion"clothing style,color and material.In order to clarify the main method and essence of reverse thinking design in"anti-fashion",it provides some new ideas for the development of"anti-fashion"clothing design.
Keywords:Anti-fashion  Reverse thinking  Design thinking  Fashion design
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