双层分割拉纬法双面立绒组织设计

基于单梭口织机，通过分析常规起绒织物的设计方法，创新地设计了N型、W型固结组织和引入辅助纬纱的双面经起绒组织。先设计双层地部组织，同时织入辅助纬纱，辅助纬纱不与上下层地经交织，在上下层地部织物的外侧；绒经连接上下两层，绒经与单层一组纬纱排列比的交织中，绒经上方或下方其中一方包覆在辅助纬纱外侧，另一方在辅助纬纱内侧，从而形成双面经起绒双层组织。利用双层织物分割割绒技术先产生内层单面立绒，再通过整纬机拉出织物中的辅助纬纱，使包覆在辅助纬纱外侧的绒经从外层被拉出，形成外层毛绒。应用本技术开发的织物毛绒簇立好，手感柔软舒适，达到了水洗机洗不易脱绒和起毛起球的效果，为企业产品开发提供了有价值的方法。

Weave design of two-sided velvet based on cut double layered and weft pulling

Based on the single-shuttle loom, N-type and W-type binding weaves and two-sided velvet weave by lead-in auxiliary weft picks were designed innovatively, through the analysis of weave construction design method of conventional raised fabric. Double layered ground weave was designed, auxiliary weft picks were designed simultaneously which outside the face and back ground fabrics, not interweaved with ground warp. Pile ends link the face and back fabrics and interweave with wefts of single layer. One side of above or below pile ends coats on the auxiliary weft outside, the other side in the auxiliary weft, so that forming two-sided warp pile double layered weave. Adopting the warp pile cutting technology forms inner single-sided velvet. Auxiliary weft picks are pulled out of fabric by using weft sorting machine, pile ends which coat on the outside of auxiliary weft are pulled out from the outer layer, to form the outer layer pile. Two-sided velvet fabrics developed using this design possess full piles, soft handle, achieve the effect of wash and machine wash without pilling, provide a valuable method for the enterprise product development.