精纺竹节纱及竹节花呢的开发

在介绍精毛纺国产细纱机智能化改造后的竹节纱纺制技术原理的基础上,研究分析竹节纱的节长、节距、倍数、捻度以及基纱线密度的确定等设计要素;通过实验确定了精纺竹节纱纺制生产过程中总牵伸比、传动比、钢丝圈、隔距块等工艺参数,以及各生产工序技术要点和提高成纱质量的应对措施;在竹节花呢开发和设计方面,根据独特的纱线外观合理选用原料配比、色彩排列及织物组织,同时通过合股等方式提高全毛细特竹节纱线强力。通过实例说明全毛细特竹节花呢的设计以及生产中纺纱、织造、染整工序的工艺参数和关键技术。

Development of worsted slubby yarn and slubby fancy

It was introduced that the principle of the spinning technology of slubby yarn after the intelligent modification of domestic spinning machines for fine yarn.The design elements,such as slub length,slub distance,multiple,twist and the determination of the base yarn count were investigated and analyzed in details.The parameters of total drafting ratio,transmission ratio,wire ring,spacer block of the worsted slub yarn in the spinning production process were determined by experiments.Meanwhile the attention points in production and the way to improve the quality of worsted slubby yarns were studied.Finally,in the development and design of fancy fabrics with slubby yarn,raw material ratio,color arrangement and fabric weaving were rationally selected according to their unique yarn appearance forms,and it was also improved the strength of slubby yarn by yarn combination.The design of fancy fabric with slubby yarn and process of spinning,weaving,dyeing and finishing in production and key technologies were exemplified.