Dyestuff—fibre interactions

The strength and nature of dye–fibre interactions vary according to fibre type and dye type. In the case of acid dyes for polyamide fibres, cationic dyes for acrylic fibres, disperse dyes for hydrophobic fibres, and direct dyes for cellulosic fibres, these interactions may be classified as non-covalent, a classification which includes van der Waals (VDW), electrostatic, induction, solvophobic and charge-transfer interactions.
Reactive dyes are a notable exception to the above, since the interaction which is responsible for their excellent wet fastness is the dye–fibre covalent bond, however, these dyes are increasingly viewed as environmentally unfriendly due to high salt usage and residual unfixed colour. This situation may be improved by either incorporating amine sites in the cellulose or by reversing the system to incorporate reactive residues in the fibre and nucleophilic sites in the dye.
Nonionic disperse dyes are valuable for hydrophobic fibres such as polyester but have made little impact on hydrophilic fibres such as silk, wool and cotton. Experiments to develop simple treatments to render the latter fibres disperse dyeable are described and the combined role of solvophobic and – interactions discussed.