织物组织结构对衬衫面料撕破强力的影响

探讨织物组织结构对衬衫面料撕破强力的影响.以纯棉、棉涤混纺、棉涤混纺加少量天丝为原料,织造不同组织结构的织物：平纹、斜纹及纵条纹组织,所有试样均采用同样的液氨免烫后整理工艺.采用冲击摆锤法测定织物的撕破强力,并且从紧度比对撕破强力、织物组织对纯棉试样撕破强力,以及原料对撕破强力的影响三个方面进行分析.结果表明,随着织物的经纬向紧度比增大,织物的纬向撕破强力呈递增趋势；对于常见规格的纯棉织物,平纹组织的经、纬向撕破强力均小于其他组织,尤其是纬向撕破强力较容易出现不合格情况,斜纹组织织物的撕破强力较高,纵条组织织物的撕破强力因组成条纹的各基本组织的配置不同而不同,其撕破强力一般介于平纹和斜纹组织织物之间；在棉涤混纺加入少量天丝时,平纹组织织物的撕破强力会明显提高.产品设计中合理设计织物结构,使经纬向紧度比增大,可以提高纬向的撕破强力.

Influence of fabric's weave structures on tearing strength of shirt fabrics

Explore has been done on influences of fabric weave on tearing strength of shirt fabrics. Fabrics with different fabric texture like plain weave, twill weave and vertical ribs were all woven with the same finishing techniques of liquid ammonia and easy-care by using different material of purified cotton, mixed cotton and polyester, and mixed cotton and polyester with little tencel. Tearing strength was tested by pendulumhammer impact experiment, and the influence of tightness ratio on tearing strength, fabric ＇ s weave on cotton tearing and material＇ s on tearing strength were analyzed. The results were shown as follows ： the weft tearing strength tended to increase as the tightness increased, with regards to ordinary pure cotton fabrics, the tearing of plain weave was the lowest among all fabric texture, especially its weft tearing stren~ easy to be unqualified. While the twill weave＇ s kept high, and the vertical ribs＇ was between plain weave＇ s and twill weave＇s, it would be different with different configuration of its different basic structures. As for CVC with little tencel, plain weave＇s tearing strength obviously rose. Reasonable design on fabric texture could rise tighthess ratio some way, thus its weft tearing tightness would increase.