经编贾卡提花间隔织物的顶破性能

为探讨不同经编提花间隔织物结构的顶破性能差异，采用在拉舍尔双针床贾卡经编机上编织的8种不同提花结构的织物进行顶破性能试验，分析不同织物的顶破强力大小和顶破曲线特征，解释了经编间隔织物的顶破机制，并从提花面结构角度讨论对织物顶破强力的影响。结果表明：平布层和提花层分别影响间隔织物顶破过程的第1、2阶段；间隔层结构决定间隔织物顶破高度；提花面结构决定间隔织物顶破强力大小，厚组织顶破强力大于薄组织，顶破强力与网孔尺寸成反比关系；在鞋用经编提花间隔织物的设计中，可根据鞋面部位和功能需求进行灵活的组织搭配，丰富鞋材的花纹图案。

Bursting properties of warp knitted jacquard spacer fabrics

The samples were of 8 warp knitted spacer yarns with discuss the different mesh sixesand basic patterns wereselected to descuss the difference of bursting properties.The bursting curve characters and bursting strength of different fabrics were analyzed.The bursting mechanism and impact of bursting strength and reduction from jacquard surface and spacer-layer were analysed. The results showed that that plain layer has an influence on the first stage of bursting process but the facquard plain is second. The bursting strength was decided by jacquard surface structure and thick structure was greater than that of thin structure. The bursting strength was inverselyproportional to the length of the mesh.The spacer structure played a buffer role during the bursting process and increased the fabric reduction. This research provides design consideration and theoretical research foundation for the application of warp knitted facquard spacer fabrics in clothing industry.