美藤果油护肤霜研制工艺优化及功效评价

以美藤果油为试验材料,研究美藤果油护肤霜的工艺条件并对其进行功效评价。考察油相和水相的添加方式、乳化温度、均质时间和均质转速4个单因素对美藤果油护肤霜感官品质的影响,在单因素试验的基础上,选择L_9(3~4)进行正交试验优化工艺参数。结果表明,将水相分2次缓慢添加到油相,乳化温度为85℃,均质时间为5 min,均质转速为1 800 r/min的条件下,美藤果油护肤霜的感官评分最高。以此工艺制备的美藤果油护肤霜性能稳定,对皮肤无刺激性,安全性高,具有较好的水分保持能力,可降低皮肤粗糙度,使皱纹深度变浅,皮肤弹性增强。     

一种植物源功能性化妆品原料——美藤果油

美藤果油中不饱和脂肪酸质量占比达93%,富含生育酚、甾醇等多种脂质活性成分,是一种具有改善皮肤微循环、促进皮肤伤口愈合、抑菌抗炎、抗氧化和抗衰老、营养皮肤、保湿润肤等功效的天然植物油脂。综述了美藤果油理化与生物特性、提取制备方法、独特功效及其在国内外化妆品中的应用进展,展望了其在日化市场上的发展前景,以期为国内美藤果油的深度研究与开发应用提供参考。     

含活性肽护肤霜的抗衰老功效测试与分析

为探讨含活性肽护肤霜的保湿、抗衰老效果,选取30名有效受试者为研究对象,连续8周早晚各使用一次含活性肽护肤霜,且停用其他抗皱护肤品。选用无创仪器检测方法,分别测试使用0周、2周、4周、6周和8周的皮肤角质层水分含量和皮肤弹性参数,并用VISIA-CR面部图像拍照系统拍摄左右脸进行对比。分析结果显示,使用含活性肽护肤霜对皮肤角质层水分含量的提高、皮肤弹性的增强、面部皱纹的减少具有显著作用,即含活性肽护肤霜具有良好的抗衰老功效。     

葡萄籽中原花青素在老年人专用护肤霜中的应用

该研究采用传统的溶剂提取法,从葡萄籽中提取原花青素。由于原花青素具有抗炎抗过敏、抗皱保湿等功能,非常有利于改善老年人的干燥、缺乏弹性、抵抗力差的皮肤,故考虑将其应用到老年人护肤品中。针对老年人的皮肤特点,并通过稳定性测试不断调试,研究配制出老年人专用护肤霜,在应用层面上促进老年人专用护肤品的发展。     

竹叶黄酮护肤霜功效的研究

将竹叶黄酮添加到护肤霜基质中制得竹叶黄酮护肤霜,按有关标准对产品进行了性能测试和评价.护肤功效检测表明,含质量分数为1.5％的竹叶黄酮护肤霜在UVB区的平均吸光度为1.273,在UVA区的防晒效果达到三星级,具有较好的防晒功效;有优良的保湿功效;能显著降低皮肤黑色素含量而美白皮肤;可改善皮肤纹理度,降低皮肤粗糙度;增加皮肤弹性;且人体试验安全、无刺激性,是一种天然的化妆品功能性成分添加剂.     

气相色谱-质谱联用分析美藤果油脂肪酸组成

采用超临界CO2流体萃取法提取美藤果种子中的脂肪油,甲酯化后运用GC-MS联用技术对其中的脂肪酸组成进行分析。结果表明:采用超临界CO2萃取法提取美藤果种子脂肪油得率为48.75%,所得脂肪油中含有11种脂肪酸,主要为亚麻酸(46.38%)、亚油酸(34.19%)、棕榈酸(10.89%)和硬脂酸(7.60%),其中不饱和脂肪酸含量高达81.18%以上,表明美藤果种子富含不饱和脂肪酸,具有较高的营养价值和保健功能。     

当归、甘草、芦荟美白护肤霜的研制

以中草药中常见的中草药当归、甘草、芦荟为初始原料,从中提取出有效成份作为美自护肤霜的天然添加剂,研制成水包油型的膏霜类高级化妆品,探讨了配制工艺对美白护肤霜效果的影响,并对美自护肤霜的性能进行了评价,证明产品具有良好的美白功效,质量符合要求。     

喷雾干燥法制备美藤果油洁面粉及性能测试

以美藤果油为原料,采用喷雾干燥法制备洁面粉,优化制备工艺,并以某品牌产品洁面粉F作为对照,对美藤果油洁面粉就基本特性、肤感和洗感测试、粉体流动性、堆积密度与振实密度进行性能测试和比对。结果表明,各因素影响洁面粉品质的主次顺序为:皂液的固形物含量>多孔糊精添加量>进料速度>进风温度;洁面粉喷雾干燥最佳工艺条件是:皂液的固形物含量20%,多孔糊精添加量4%,进风温度110℃,进料速度10 mL/min。两种洁面粉的水分含量、pH值都符合要求,均具有较好的水溶性和流动性,其中洁面粉F的pH更占优势,美藤果油洁面粉的水溶性、保湿性和肤感体验更佳。     

喷雾干燥法制备美藤果油洁面粉及性能测试

以美藤果油为原料,采用喷雾干燥法制备洁面粉,优化制备工艺,并以某品牌产品洁面粉F作为对照,对美藤果油洁面粉就基本特性、肤感和洗感测试、粉体流动性、堆积密度与振实密度进行性能测试和比对。结果表明,各因素影响洁面粉品质的主次顺序为:皂液的固形物含量>多孔糊精添加量>进料速度>进风温度;洁面粉喷雾干燥最佳工艺条件是:皂液的固形物含量20%,多孔糊精添加量4%,进风温度110℃,进料速度10 mL/min。两种洁面粉的水分含量、pH值都符合要求,均具有较好的水溶性和流动性,其中洁面粉F的pH更占优势,美藤果油洁面粉的水溶性、保湿性和肤感体验更佳。     

液晶的特性及其在护肤品中的应用

液晶型护肤品的乳化结构呈胶网液晶 ,其酷似皮肤颗粒层的板层结构 ,具有优越的保湿、保护皮肤弹性等特性 ,能延缓皮肤衰老 ,所以液晶在护肤品中的应用具有很广的前景。     

Insect antifeedant properties of anthranoids from the genusVismia

Vismiones and ferruginins, representatives of a new class of lypophilic anthranoids from the genusVismia were found to inhibit feeding in larvae of species ofSpodoptera, Heliothis, and inLocusta migratoria.     

Direct observation of freeze-thaw instability of latex coatings via high pressure freezing and cryogenic SEM

Despite its industrial importance, the subject of freeze-thaw (F/T) stability of latex coatings has not been studied extensively. There is also a lack of fundamental understanding about the process and the mechanisms through which a coating becomes destabilized. High pressure (2100 bar) freezing fixes the state of water-suspended particles of polymer binder and inorganic pigments without the growth of ice crystals during freezing that produce artifacts in direct imaging scanning electron microscopy (SEM) of fracture surfaces of frozen coatings. We show that by incorporating copolymerizable functional monomers, it is possible to achieve F/T stability in polymer latexes and in low-VOC paints, as judged by the microstructures revealed by the cryogenic SEM technique. Particle coalescence as well as pigment segregation in F/T unstable systems are visualized. In order to achieve F/T stability in paints, latex particles must not flocculate and should provide protection to inorganic pigment and extender particles. Because of the unique capabilities of the cryogenic SEM, we are able to separate the effects of freezing and thawing, and study the influence of the rate of freezing and thawing on F/T stability. Destabilization can be caused by either freezing or thawing. A slow freezing process is more detrimental to F/T stability than a fast freezing process; the latter actually preserves suspension stability during freezing. Presented at the 82nd Annual Meeting of the Federation of Societies for Coatings Technology, October 27–29, 2004 in Chicago, IL. Tied for first place in The John A. Gordon Best Paper Competition.     

Many Drugs of Abuse May Be Acutely Transformed to Dopamine,Norepinephrine and Epinephrine In Vivo

It is well established that a wide range of drugs of abuse acutely boost the signaling of the sympathetic nervous system and the hypothalamic–pituitary–adrenal (HPA) axis, where norepinephrine and epinephrine are major output molecules. This stimulatory effect is accompanied by such symptoms as elevated heart rate and blood pressure, more rapid breathing, increased body temperature and sweating, and pupillary dilation, as well as the intoxicating or euphoric subjective properties of the drug. While many drugs of abuse are thought to achieve their intoxicating effects by modulating the monoaminergic neurotransmitter systems (i.e., serotonin, norepinephrine, dopamine) by binding to these receptors or otherwise affecting their synaptic signaling, this paper puts forth the hypothesis that many of these drugs are actually acutely converted to catecholamines (dopamine, norepinephrine, epinephrine) in vivo, in addition to transformation to their known metabolites. In this manner, a range of stimulants, opioids, and psychedelics (as well as alcohol) may partially achieve their intoxicating properties, as well as side effects, due to this putative transformation to catecholamines. If this hypothesis is correct, it would alter our understanding of the basic biosynthetic pathways for generating these important signaling molecules, while also modifying our view of the neural substrates underlying substance abuse and dependence, including psychological stress-induced relapse. Importantly, there is a direct way to test the overarching hypothesis: administer (either centrally or peripherally) stable isotope versions of these drugs to model organisms such as rodents (or even to humans) and then use liquid chromatography-mass spectrometry to determine if the labeled drug is converted to labeled catecholamines in brain, blood plasma, or urine samples.     

Ethanol and (−)-α-Pinene: Attractant Kairomones for Bark and Ambrosia Beetles in the Southeastern US

In 2002–2004, we examined the flight responses of 49 species of native and exotic bark and ambrosia beetles (Coleoptera: Scolytidae and Platypodidae) to traps baited with ethanol and/or (−)-α-pinene in the southeastern US. Eight field trials were conducted in mature pine stands in Alabama, Florida, Georgia, North Carolina, and South Carolina. Funnel traps baited with ethanol lures (release rate, about 0.6 g/day at 25–28°C) were attractive to ten species of ambrosia beetles (Ambrosiodmus tachygraphus, Anisandrus sayi, Dryoxylon onoharaensum, Monarthrum mali, Xyleborinus saxesenii, Xyleborus affinis, Xyleborus ferrugineus, Xylosandrus compactus, Xylosandrus crassiusculus, and Xylosandrus germanus) and two species of bark beetles (Cryptocarenus heveae and Hypothenemus sp.). Traps baited with (−)-α-pinene lures (release rate, 2–6 g/day at 25–28°C) were attractive to five bark beetle species (Dendroctonus terebrans, Hylastes porculus, Hylastes salebrosus, Hylastes tenuis, and Ips grandicollis) and one platypodid ambrosia beetle species (Myoplatypus flavicornis). Ethanol enhanced responses of some species (Xyleborus pubescens, H. porculus, H. salebrosus, H. tenuis, and Pityophthorus cariniceps) to traps baited with (−)-α-pinene in some locations. (−)-α-Pinene interrupted the response of some ambrosia beetle species to traps baited with ethanol, but only the response of D. onoharaensum was interrupted consistently at most locations. Of 23 species of ambrosia beetles captured in our field trials, nine were exotic and accounted for 70–97% of total catches of ambrosia beetles. Our results provide support for the continued use of separate traps baited with ethanol alone and ethanol with (−)-α-pinene to detect and monitor common bark and ambrosia beetles from the southeastern region of the US.     

Novel polyurethane coating technology through glycidyl carbamate chemistry

Glycidyl carbamate chemistry combines the excellent properties of polyurethanes with the crosslinking chemistry of epoxy resins. Glycidyl carbamate functional oligomers were synthesized by the reaction of polyfunctional isocyanate oligomers and glycidol. The oligomers were formulated into coatings with several amine functional crosslinkers at varying stoichiometric ratios and cured at different temperatures. Properties such as solvent resistance, hardness, and impact resistance were dependent on the composition and cure conditions. Most coatings had an excellent combination of properties. Studies were carried out to determine the kinetics of the curing reaction of the glycidyl carbamate functional oligomers with multifunctional and model amines. Detailed kinetic analysis of the curing reactions was also undertaken. The results indicated that the glycidyl carbamate functional group is more reactive than a glycidyl ether group. Presented at the 82nd Annual Meeting of the Federation of Societies for Coatings Technology, on October 27–29, 2004, in Chicago, IL.