服装情感学

服装情感学通过对服装设计者、服装消费者、服装穿戴者和服装感受者的情感进行分析和研究,揭示服装在设计、消费、穿戴、感受过程中的情感规律和情感关系,对服装设计、服装营销、服装欣赏和着装艺术都具有一定的意义。阐述了服装情感学的概念及其研究内容、研究方法,服装情感学与相邻学科(比如服装心理学、服装美学、感性工学)的关系和研究意义。所提出的研究方法除了传统的服装心理学和感性工学的研究方法以外,着重论述了脑科学法、数学模型法和计算机模拟法在服装情感学中的应用。     

网店形象对顾客服装网购意愿的影响研究

服装网店是消费者与服装商家进行网上交易的场所,其形象是影响消费者网购的一个重要因素。文章基于S-O-R模型,结合网店形象、顾客感知风险和信任等相关文献,构建了研究模型并提出了相关假设。运用问卷调查和数据分析对模型和假设进行了验证,发现:商品形象、安全形象与服务形象对网购意愿产生正的直接影响;顾客感知风险对网购意愿产生负的直接影响,并在网页形象等四个维度与顾客网购意愿之间存在中介作用;顾客信任对网购意愿有正的直接影响,并在安全形象等四个维度与顾客网购意愿之间存在中介作用。根据所获得的结论,文章提出了相关建议。     

服装品牌的情感定位

从对人类情感需求的分析入手,将情感作为服装品牌的定位核心,由此进一步扩展了市场细分指标体系。引入服装品牌的情感定位方式,通过服装品牌情感因素的分析,得出情感层次与马斯洛的需求层次理论、服装穿着功能层次的对应关系。同时阐述了情感定位与品牌个性化之间的关系和消费者与品牌之间的情感维系问题,认为消费者与服装品牌之间的情感共鸣是情感维系的基础,而适度的情感定位调整则是保持服装品牌情感维系的关键。     

服装品牌色彩显著度对品牌忠诚的作用机制

为了提高消费者对服装品牌的忠诚度,文章从服装品牌色彩入手,基于S-O-R理论构建了品牌色彩显著度、色彩感知价值、品牌认同和品牌忠诚之间的影响关系模型,并提出假设。基于服装消费者进行问卷调研,采用结构方程实证了四者之间的关系。研究发现:品牌色彩显著度能对品牌忠诚产生显著的积极影响,其中情感价值与个人认同、社会价值与个人认同、社会价值与社会认同在这种影响传递价值中发挥部分中介效应;品牌色彩显著度对情感价值、社会价值具有显著的积极影响;情感价值、社会价值对个人认同及社会价值对社会认同均存在显著的积极影响;个人认同、社会认同对品牌忠诚存在显著的积极影响。因此,服装品牌可以通过提高品牌色彩显著度从而提高消费者的品牌忠诚。     

音乐艺术在服装中的应用研究

音乐艺术作为一种重要的听觉语言，无论是其艺术形式、表现元素，或是展现效果，都可以有效提升人们感官中的积极情绪。文章以音乐艺术融合服装为切入点，分析音乐艺术在服装表演、服装设计、服装风格等方面中的应用体现；探讨了音乐艺术与服装艺术之间的关系，总结了音乐艺术在服装中的审美、情感及创意应用价值，以期通过音乐艺术元素与服装的有机融合，进一步提升服装设计层次感，强化服装表演的效果，使服装展示效果质量得到升华。     

服装情感计算初探

介绍了服装情感计算的起源和国内外研究现状,对服装图像情感计算的原理、方法和可行性进行了分析与说明,并对其用途与前景进行了展望,表明这是一项在学术方面和应用方面具有研究意义和实用价值的新技术。     

纺织服装集群品牌发展的影响因素研究

针对目前纺织服装集群品牌缺乏的问题,采用定性分析与定量分析相结合的方法对集群品牌发展的相关影响因素及其相互关系进行研究。首先,查阅理论文献资料,采用扎根理论的研究方法并结合Nvivo10软件,对文献资料进行数据分析,得出3大类12个相关影响因素;然后,对相关影响因素进行理论假设分析,运用结构方程方法建立集群品牌的影响因素模型。通过问卷调研结合SPSS20.0和Amos20.0分析验证假设,并计算路径系数。结果表明:基础环境、关系网络和企业情况之间相互影响,并对纺织服装集群品牌发展影响显著。最后提出,纺织服装集群品牌发展需要注重基础环境的建设、关系网络的维护和企业自身实力的提高。     

服装消费情绪影响购买决策的实证研究

随着感性消费时代的到来,消费者的情绪化消费行为受到服装行业越来越多的关注。针对服装零售卖场中影响消费情绪的因素进行研究,借鉴社会学、经济学、心理学应用比较广泛的结构方程模型,通过市场调查的一手数据,借助SPSS12.0数据分析软件和结构方程模型分析软件AMOS70,验证了7Ps营销理论在服装零售卖场的适用性,建立了服装消费情绪影响购买决策的量化模型,得出了主要构成要素间的假设结果,并结合服装零售卖场的可控因素提出了相应的营销建议,对服装行业提高销售业绩有一定的指导意义。     

跨境电商平台用户体验对服装消费者购买意愿的影响——基于来源国形象的调节作用

2019年《电子商务法》的实施使跨境电商平台成为跨国消费的首选渠道,因此,研究跨境电商平台用户体验对购买意愿的影响具有重要意义。文章通过文献梳理和分析,设立了用户体验和购买意愿之间的假设关系模型。基于问卷调研数据,采用因子分析和回归分析相结合的方法,实证验证了几者之间的关系及影响。研究发现:用户体验中实用、产品、服务、关联四项要素正向影响购买意愿;体验价值和信任度起到中介作用,且消费者体验价值正向影响信任度;来源国形象在信任度和购买意愿之间具有正向调节作用,由此为跨境电商平台提出相关对策建议。     

纺织服装企业设计能力评价与设计模式演化研究

从创新的视角出发,根据对现有文献的整理,总结出了评价纺织服装企业设计能力的维度和主要指标,提出了“设计模式”的概念,并根据战略和组织2个维度,将现有的设计模式分为5类。在此基础上,对企业所处设计模式与其设计能力之间的关系提出了若干假设,并通过对浙江省纺织服装企业的问卷调查来检验假设的合理性,针对企业设计选择与设计能力升级问题进行了典型案例研究。结果表明,在一定环境下,不同设计模式下纺织服装企业的设计能力体现出了显著性的差异,而设计能力升级和设计模式演化之间存在一定的路径依赖关系。     

The roles of culture and language in designing emotion lists: Comparing the same language in different English and Spanish speaking countries

This study investigated the effect of culture and language on reported emotions. Cross cultural studies of language need to look both between different languages and within the same language as spoken in different countries. Starting with a list of emotions in English, translation resulted in different lists for Spain and Mexico due to differences in the use of Spanish. Spanish lists were somewhat longer than the English list, as one English word could result in two Spanish words with similar meanings. A qualitative study was conducted in multiple locations in the UK, US, Mexico and Spain to identify which emotions were relevant to beverages.An on-line questionnaire combining the emotions selected by the focus groups was then completed by 600 respondents in four English speaking countries (US, UK, Australia, New Zealand) and two Spanish speaking countries (Spain, Mexico) where people were asked which emotions applied to their favourite beverage, beer and their least liked alcoholic beverage. There were more similarities among the four English speaking countries than between Spain and Mexico and more similarities between Mexican respondents and English speaking respondents than between Mexican and Spanish respondents. Spanish respondents did not consider certain emotions to be very relevant to their favourite beverage. Respondents from all countries found beverages without alcohol to be different from beverages with alcohol regarding the emotions they evoke. In addition, in English speaking countries positive emotion terms were more discriminating for both favourite and least liked beverages, while in Spanish speaking countries, both positive and negative emotions were more equally discriminating. These results demonstrate that cross cultural differences exist within the same language as well as across languages. Individuals and entire cultures do not all verbally express their emotions in the same manner. Recommendations are presented for producing emotion lists which will work in multiple countries and for conducting cross cultural emotion research.     

A global study using PANAS (PA and NA) scales to measure consumer emotions associated with aromas of phytonutrient supplements

Phytonutrient supplements are consumed to increase dietary consumption of nutrients. This research addresses the opportunities and the challenges for this product category to better understand consumer choice and consumption in combination with hedonic (liking), sensory, psychographic and emotion measures. One objective of this exploratory study is to use Positive Affect Negative Affect Schedule (PANAS) to measure consumer (n = 303) emotions associated with 9 different aromas of phytonutrient supplements.A key issue facing emotion research in product development is the proper balance of positive and negative emotions. Traditional clinical emotion questionnaires emphasize negative emotions. Newer emotion questionnaires for commercial use emphasize positive emotions, both in the food and perfume categories. What is the proper balance of positive and negative emotions for a broad range of consumer products? Desmet and Schifferstein (2008) noted the “hedonic asymmetry”, or positive bias, which exists for many product emotions. In contrast to the clinical questionnaires which emphasize negative emotions, and the newer commercial questionnaires which emphasize positive emotions, the Positive Affect and Negative Affect Schedule (PANAS) has equal numbers of positive and negative emotions in both the regular and shorter forms.This study supports that the PANAS scales are valid in measurement of consumer emotions evoked by the aromas of phytonutrient supplements. The PANAS scale with 20-items and the short PANAS scale with 10-items are largely consistent in the results. Different phytonutrient product aromas were discriminated on their PANAS emotional profiles, and on both positive (PA) and negative (NA) dimensions. Results suggest that the hedonic, sensory, and emotional attributes represent different dimensions in consumer choice and consumption behaviors.     

少数民族服饰的情感功能初探

根据少数民族日常生活中的一些服饰现象,归纳出少数民族服饰的情感具有记载民族历史、标识民族身份、物化宗教信仰、传承人生仪礼、装点节庆习俗、内化价值观念等独特的社会和文化功能.文化的认同始于情感的沟通,理解和尊重少数民族的服饰情感,借鉴与应用少数民族服饰情感的表达方式,有利于社会和谐文化的构建及人类服饰生活的美化.     

An update on the roles of culture and language in designing emotion lists: English,Spanish and Portuguese

This paper is an update on a study investigating the effect of culture and language on reported emotions and confirms that both culture and language are important in studying emotions evoked by beverages. In addition, sub-categories of products, such as beverage types have different emotion associations in different cultures. A list of emotions developed for beverages in the UK, US, Mexico and Spain was translated into Portuguese for Brazil and Portugal. An on-line questionnaire combining the emotions selected by the focus groups was then completed by 600 respondents each in Brazil and Portugal where people were asked which emotions applied to their favourite beverage, beer and their least liked alcoholic beverage. Data from the two studies were combined.Respondents from English speaking countries showed very similar emotional reactions for individual beverage types. Respondents from Mexico and Brazil were more similar to English speaking respondents than to those from Spain and, with the exception of wine, respondents from Portugal were similar to those of Brazil and Mexico in their emotional reactions. Respondents from Spain and Portugal were similar in their emotional reaction to wine. We confirm our conclusion that for products, but certainly for beverages, culture will affect emotion language usage, but even within the same category, the pattern of differences may be different for different products. In designing emotion lists it is therefore important to take both culture and language into consideration and to realize that a list developed in one country for a specific product type is not necessarily suitable in another country or for a different product.     

The impact of evoked consumption contexts and appropriateness on emotion responses

Sensory and consumer scientists are seeing the need to explore broader measures, such as product-driven emotions, to be able to fully understand and satisfy consumers’ demands. However, to date, the consumer methodologies used in food-related emotion research have neglected a crucial element linked to emotions: the consumption context. This is a concern, because consumers’ emotional responses to food are elicited by many other sources apart from the sensory properties of the food itself. The present research aimed to fill in this gap of knowledge by exploring how evoked consumption contexts affect responses obtained from an emotion questionnaire. Two food stimuli (apple and chocolate brownie) and three different consumption contexts (a ‘weekend breakfast’, an ‘afternoon snack’, and ‘after a special dinner’) were used to vary the level of product-context appropriateness. A within-subject design was used in which 157 participants first completed an emotion questionnaire (36 terms, checklist format) in response to each of the evoked consumption contexts (presented in written format). A week later, the same participants completed the same emotion questionnaire while imagining themselves eating an apple or chocolate brownie (shown as images) without any given context (control condition), and then under the three different contexts (random monadic sequential order). When the chocolate brownie was the food stimulus, 20 of 36 emotion responses were significantly different from context to context (including the no-context condition). Conversely, only 9 significant differences were established when apple was the food stimulus. It was also found that frequency of use of positive emotion terms was higher in those consumption contexts that were considered more appropriate, whereas negative emotion terms were more frequently selected when the context was perceived as less appropriate for the product. Taken together, these findings highlight how the context in which a food is consumed (even if imagined) can affect consumers’ emotion responses towards it. More broadly, they demonstrate the reciprocal effect that the context and the product have on the elicited emotion responses, which are not situationally invariant. This research also explored how psychological traits related to emotional eating affected the emotion responses and found that in general higher emotional eaters selected a higher number of emotion terms (positive and negative). This study represents a needed advance in food-related emotion research, and upon replication of the results with other product-context combinations, could offer an easy-to-implement methodology that should more closely match the emotion responses that consumers would elicit in real-life situations while eating and drinking.     

On the contribution of the senses to food emotional experience

Emotions are an important component of our daily lives and contribute to behavior as well as general well-being. Foods are prominent sources of emotions (e.g. enjoyment, disgust…). One question that may arise in food research is how the different senses interact to create a unified affective representation of food. Indeed, current research suggests that rather than a unimodal processing of each sensory aspect of a food, there is a very early and almost undistinguishable integration of the senses, especially for the construction of flavor. In the present paper, we argue that a multisensory approach is necessary to understand the way senses converge to enable an emotional experience when perceiving food. We further put an emphasis on the fact that such multisensory integration is influenced by higher-order cognitive processes and possibly by emotions as well. After presenting theories in the field as well as experimental data, we discuss some paradigms that could pave the way for future research on food-induced emotional processing.     

Emotions elicited while drinking coffee: A cross-cultural comparison between Korean and Chinese consumers

Consumers assess products not only based on their physical aspects but also on their emotion-evoking components. Many methods, such as EsSense Profile^®, GEOS, and ScentMove, have been developed for evaluating various kinds of products. Research has suggested the need for developing a specialized lexicon for specific food or beverage categories. The English emotion lexicon, the Coffee Drinking Experience¹(CDE), was developed specifically for coffee. However, while emotions can be expressed by words, they can also be affected by culture and context. Thus, our objectives are 1) to develop coffee emotion lexicons in Korean and Chinese, 2) to compare the differences of emotions evoked while consuming different kinds of coffee, and 3) to compare the differences between Chinese and Korean consumers while consuming the same coffee samples. To address these aims, we conducted two studies. First, we conducted a consumer-led translation of 86 emotion terms from the CDE into Korean and Chinese. Second, consumers checked the intensity of emotion terms while drinking six commercial coffee samples. The order of the Chinese and Korean consumers’ overall preferences was the same: all-in-one coffee received higher scores than black coffee. Finally, using a logistic stepwise regression analysis, the Chinese and Korean lexicons were reduced to 53 and 29 terms, respectively.     

A fascinating but risky case of reverse inference: From measures to emotions!

Inferring emotions based on accessible signals is a tendency that we have both as social individuals and as scientists. Academia and industry have developed methods and devices aimed at detecting specific emotions (e.g., joy, anger or fear) based on physiological or behavioral signals. The current opinion paper argues that this is currently a risky path to be taken in terms of scientific validity. We argue that using measures to test hypotheses concerning emotions is efficient, but that going backward – using measures to infer emotions – is risky. We also argue that ways to circumvent this reverse inference issue include making use of converging evidence across the five components of emotion (cognitive appraisal, action tendency, expression, physiological reaction and feelings), and investing even more in methodological developments.     

Using the emotion circumplex to uncover sensory drivers of emotional associations to products: six case studies

While emotional associations to products are increasingly used alongside sensory product characterisation in consumer research, studies that link these product responses remain less common. Six studies (104–270 people per study) were conducted using diverse products (salted snacks, potato chips, yoghurt, cheese, snack bars and fruit; 5–10 samples per study). To indicate their emotional response during product tasting, consumers used the emotion circumplex which is a single-response questionnaire that spans the dimensions of valence (pleasure to displeasure) and arousal (activation to deactivation). Sensory characterisation was obtained using check-all-that-apply (CATA) questions. Through regression analysis, sensory drivers of emotional associations were established, with different linkages to valence and arousal being identified. Many study-specific linkages were found, but the main result pertained to generalised patterns in some linkages including positive associations between ‘sweet’ and “pleasure”, often combined with “pleasant activation”. For ‘sour’, positive linkages were established to “activation”, typically with, or without, “negative pleasure”. Low flavour intensity was positively linked to the emotion circumplex quadrant that connected “deactivation” to “displeasure.” In general, linkages had straightforward and meaningful interpretations, confirming suitability of the emotion circumplex for use in product-focused emotion research.