仪纶平针添纱织物的抗起毛起球性能

选用10种不同纺纱工艺制备的18.2tex(32S)仪纶纯纺、仪纶/精梳棉混纺、精梳棉纯纺针织纱线,在圆纬机上与2.2tex(20D)氨纶交织织制平针添纱织物。测试与分析了针织纱线和平针添纱织物的抗起毛起球性能。结果显示:纺纱工艺对仪纶平针添纱织物的抗起毛起球等级和起球数量有显著影响,赛络纺平针添纱织物的抗起毛起球等级优于环锭纺织物0.5级左右,赛络紧密纺平针添纱织物的抗起毛起球等级优于环锭纺织物1.0级左右;相同纺纱方式下的仪纶/精梳棉混纺平针添纱织物的抗起毛起球等级和起球粒数均有所改善,且随着混纺纱中精梳棉比例的增加,改善效果更好。     

仪纶~(TM)纤维及纱线的性能研究

对比测试与分析了仪纶~(TM)纤维、常规聚酯纤维和棉纤维的性能。分别选用环锭纺、赛络纺、赛络紧密纺纺纱工艺,纺制线密度相同的纯纺仪纶~(TM)、仪纶~(TM)/棉混纺、常规聚酯/棉混纺与棉纯纺纱线,测试和分析了纱线的性能。试验结果显示:仪纶~(TM)纤维的力学性能介于常规聚酯和棉纤维之间,初始模量小;不同纺纱工艺纺制的仪纶~(TM)纱线总体性能相似,赛络紧密纺纱线纱体结构更均匀;相同混纺比的仪纶~(TM)/棉纱线的回潮率较常规聚酯/棉纱线的回潮率高。     

仪纶线密度对环锭纺纬平针织物抗起毛起球性能的影响

选用6种线密度不同的仪纶纤维,测试纤维长度、卷曲率、回潮率、断裂强度和断裂伸长率,及其对应的环锭纺、紧密纺纱线的断裂强度、断裂伸长率、捻度、毛羽指数、条干均匀度等性能,制备纬平针织物试样,分别采用圆轨迹法、马丁代尔法、起球箱法等等级评价方法,以及描述法、计数法等综合评价方法,评价仪纶针织物的抗起毛起球性能。试验结果显示:仪纶纤维的回潮率为0.8%,仪纶纤维线密度对纱线性能无显著影响;环锭纺仪纶纱线的毛羽指数、条干不匀大于紧密纺仪纶纱线,断裂强度及动摩擦因数小于紧密纺仪纶纱线;仪纶纤维线密度差异对环锭纺纬平针织物的抗起毛起球性能未产生显著影响;圆轨迹法和马丁代尔法的测试结果基本一致,起球箱法测定的织物抗起毛起球性能等级优于圆轨迹法和马丁代尔法,其评价等级可高出0.5~1.0级。     

改性黏胶羊毛蛋白纤维混纺保暖面料开发

基于改性黏胶羊毛蛋白纤维的性能,采用赛络紧密纺纺纱工艺,试纺18.3 tex的改性黏胶、腈纶、黏胶(20∶40∶40)混纺针织纱,并采用该纤维与4.0 tex的氨纶交织,开发罗纹针织面料,详细阐述编织工艺和后整理工艺。对混纺纱线的物理机械性能,针织面料的顶破强力、折痕回复角等物理性能和缩水率、透气率、热阻、湿阻等服用性能进行测试。结果表明,改性黏胶羊毛蛋白混纺针织面料具有柔软的手感,以及良好的抗起毛起球性能、保暖性能等。     

紧密纺织物服用性能测试与分析

为更好地了解紧密纺织物的服用性能,提高产品开发的针对性,对相同规格的紧密纺棉织物和普通环锭纺棉织物进行了强伸度、耐磨性、透气性、折皱同复性、抗起毛起球性、吸湿性等性能的对比.结果表明:紧密纺织物具有良好的强度和伸长变形能力,其耐磨性、透气性、折皱回复性、抗起毛起球性均明显优于普通环锭纺织物,但其吸湿性有所降低.紧密纺织...     

莱赛尔三粗纱赛络纱的纺制

探讨莱赛尔三粗纱赛络纱的纺纱工艺。借鉴缆形纺和赛络纺的优点,提出了三粗纱复合赛络纺纱方法,从粗纱喂入方式、捻度配置、加捻三角区形态等方面分析了其技术特点。通过合理配置纺纱工艺,成功纺制出莱赛尔14.8tex三粗纱赛络针织纱,并与普通赛络纱进行了质量对比测试。结果表明:与普通赛络纺相比,三粗纱赛络纺能够进一步改善成纱质量,提高纱的可织性、织物的耐磨性和抗起毛起球性能。认为:该纺纱方法可进一步提高赛络纱的技术含量和产品附加值。     

中空咖啡碳聚酯纤维/棉混纺纬平针织物的服用性能

为研究中空咖啡碳聚酯纤维含量对其纬平针织物服用性能的影响,设计了5种不同混纺比中空咖啡碳聚酯纤维/棉纤维,采用环锭纺与赛络纺纺制了10组18.3 tex混纺纱,并织成相同规格的纬平针织物。测试并分析织物的顶破、起毛起球、透气、透湿及保暖性能。基于回归分析,获得了中空咖啡碳聚酯纤维含量与织物各性能指标的关系,并建立了综合性能评价函数对织物的服用性能进行评价。结果表明:随着中空咖啡碳聚酯纤维含量的增加,混纺纬平针织物的顶破强力、透气、透湿、保暖性增加,抗起毛起球性能变差,赛络纱织物的综合性能优于环锭纱织物;中空咖啡碳聚酯纤维/棉混纺织物相比于普通涤/棉织物,透气性能可提高66%,透湿性能提高10%,保暖性能提高2.6倍。     

平行纺无捻纱毛羽对针织物抗起毛起球性能的影响

平行纺纺纱又称为包缠纺或包覆纺,在介绍平行纺无捻纱线纺纱原理及应用的基础上,运用对比的方法,测试并分析了环锭纺有捻纱线与平行纺无捻纱线的毛羽指数,以及2种纱线的针织物抗起毛起球性能。得出:平行纺纱无捻纱线毛羽大量减少,其针织物抗起毛起球性能优于环锭纺有捻纱针织物,纱线的毛羽对针织物的抗起毛起球性能影响较大。     

低捻纱单面针织物的外观品质研究

选用假捻赛络纺低捻纯棉纱线编织单面纬编针织物,探讨纱线捻系数对单面针织物外观品质的影响。测试与分析结果表明:相比同种纺纱方式的常规捻系数纱线,假捻赛络纺低捻纱织得的单面纬编针织物的纵行扭斜现象得到明显改善,其织物的抗起毛起球等级符合针织内衣标准,假捻赛络纺低捻纱线的应用有利于提高单面纬编针织物的外观质量。     

不同纺纱方式对竹浆纤维混纺纱线性能的影响

为研究不同纺纱方式对竹浆纤维混纺纱线性能的影响,采用竹浆纤维、棉纤维、涤纶纤维与粘胶纤维进行混纺,混纺比例为15/40/30/15。通过对竹浆纤维混纺纱线的条干均匀度、毛羽、断裂强度、断裂伸长率等性能进行测试分析,探究了纺纱方式对成纱性能产生影响的原因。结果表明:由于转杯纺、赛络纺、环锭纺、赛络紧密纺、普通紧密纺纺纱方式不同,其不同的成纱结构特点影响了纱线的内在性能。环锭纱适宜生产强力要求较高的产品,紧密纱综合性能较好,赛络纱具有良好的外观特征,转杯纱的条干CV值优于环锭纱,赛络紧密纺的成纱毛羽最低。     

Permeability properties of single jersey fabrics made of hollow yarns

In this work effect of using hollow yarns on the permeability properties of the single jersey knitted fabrics were studied. Firstly yarns were produced by ring spinning machine using cotton, viscose and acrylic fibres in the mantle and water soluble polyvinyl alcohol (PVA) fibre in the core. Single jersey fabrics were knitted and PVA core was removed subsequently by washing process to create hollow yarn. Weight, air permeability and water transmission rate properties of fabrics were measured before and after washing and compared with reference fabrics. Due to the removal of PVA fibres from the yarn core after washing treatment, air permeability and water vapour transmission rate of the all kind of single jersey fabrics which were produced with hollow yarns increased as well as weight of the fabrics decreased which will cause more comfort during any exercise. It was also found that mantle fibre type and PVA ratio have significant effect on the fabric properties.     

The Air-permeability Measurement of Open Fabrics by Using Superimposed Fabric Layers

An account is given of an investigation of the dimensional properties of a series of plain weft-knitted fabrics produced from open-end-spun yarns. The results are compared with those for similar fabrics knitted from ring-spun yarns.

It is shown that fabrics knitted from the two types of yarn possess different properties and particularly that the amount of relaxation shrinkage observed in fabrics knitted from open-end-spun yarns is greater than that which occurs in fabrics knitted from ring-spun yarns. The aesthetic properties of fabrics made from open-end-spun yarns are inferior to those of fabrics made from ring-spun yarns, particularly with regard to a lack of stitch clarity and a somewhat harsher handle, although the latter effect is shown to be apparently unrelated to differences in the frictional properties of the two types of yarn.     

聚乳酸纤维纬编针织产品的研究及开发

研究了聚乳酸纤维纯纺纱线及与棉混纺纱线的力学性能,结合聚乳酸纤维设计编织了纬平针组织和不同垫纱比的3种衬垫组织,并对这几种面料的编织工艺和染整工艺进行了介绍.     

Wicking and drying properties of conventional ring- and vortex-spun cotton yarns and fabrics

This study investigated the vertical wicking, water absorption and drying properties of vortex- and ring-spun combed cotton yarns and knitted fabrics comparatively. The yarns were produced in three different counts as 30 Ne, 40 Ne and 50 Ne. The experimental results revealed that vortex-spun yarns had lower yarn and fabric wicking and water absorption values than ring-spun yarns. In addition, it was observed that yarn type did not have a significant impact on the drying time of the fabrics.     

Impact of structural variations in hollow yarn on heat and moisture transport properties of fabrics

The use of hollow/microporous yarns plays an important role in enhancing the thermo‐physiological comfort properties of fabrics. Depending on structural variations in hollow yarn, heat and moisture regulation behaviours of fabrics can be affected significantly. In this study, three types of hollow cotton yarn fabrics, produced by introducing polyvinyl alcohol (PVA) filament in the core, PVA staple fibres in the blend and PVA filament in doubling with cotton spun yarn, are studied. All three types of pre‐hollow yarns and reference yarns are made with a variation in spinning technique (single roving/double roving) to prepare eight single jersey knitted fabrics. The hollow/microporous structure of the yarn is created by dissolving the PVA fibres using hot washing of the fabrics. On overall evaluation of the fabric’s thermo‐physiological comfort properties, the doubled hollow yarn fabrics are found to be better than other fabrics. In general, thermal resistance, thermal absorptivity, wicking and drying properties of all types of hollow yarn fabrics increase after repeated laundering, while air permeability, water vapour permeability and water absorbency of hollow yarn fabrics mostly decrease. In contrast with fabrics made from yarn produced through single roving technique, use of double roving technique only improves fabric water vapour permeability.     

竹浆/棉混纺纱针织物的服用性能

以竹浆/棉混纺纱为研究对象,经圆纬机织造和后整理工艺制备出纬平针和双罗纹针织物,测试分析了织物的透气性、透湿性、芯吸性、吸湿快干性、悬垂性、刚柔性和表面摩擦性等服用性能。测试结果显示,竹浆/棉混纺纱针织产品具有良好的春夏季服用舒适性能。     

Comparison of fabric properties knitted by pin spacer compact and conventional compact yarns

This study examined the influence of pin spacer apparatus attachment on compact yarn quality parameters and physical properties of knitted fabrics manufactured using those 100% cotton compact yarns. Two groups of compact yarns were spun on regular compact yarn spinning frame with and without addition of pin spacer apparatus which is placed at the end of the drawing unit of regular compact yarn spinning frame. Totally eight yarns were spun at four different yarn number levels (Ne 24/1, Ne 30/1, Ne 36/1 and Ne 40/1) and two different spinning conditions (with and without pin spacer apparatus). Spun yarn types were then knitted on the industrial sized plain knitting machine. Knitted fabrics were used in the greige and dyed form to evaluate their bursting strength (kPa), dimensional change, abrasion related mass loss (%), pilling resistance, air permeability (mm/s) and colour difference. Test results were then statistically evaluated and influence of pin spacer attachment on yarn quality parameters and fabric properties was determined. In the frame of this experimental work, attachment of pin spacer apparatus improved compact yarn characteristics especially at yarn evenness, imperfection and hairiness values. In case of knitted fabric properties, it was found that pin spacer apparatus attached compact yarn utilization significantly improved air permeability properties of knitted fabrics.     

Effect of blend proportion on thermal behaviour of bamboo knitted fabrics

This study presents the thermal comfort properties of single jersey knitted fabric structures made from cotton, regenerated bamboo and cotton–bamboo blended yarns. Cotton, bamboo fibre and blends of the two fibres (100% cotton, 100% bamboo, 50:50 cotton:bamboo, 67:33 cotton:bamboo, 33:67 cotton:bamboo) were spun into yarns of identical linear density (20?tex). Each of the yarns so produced was converted to single jersey knitted fabrics with loose, medium and tight structures. The thermal conductivity of the fabrics was generally found to decrease with increase in the proportion of bamboo fibre. The relative water vapour permeability and air permeability of the fabrics were observed to increase with increase in bamboo fibre content. Statistical analysis also indicates that the results are significant for air permeability, thermal resistance, thermal conductivity and relative water vapour permeability of the fabrics.     

Novel engineering approach to optimization of thermal comfort properties of hemp containing textiles

The aim of this research was to investigate the possibilities of producing comfort hemp containing textile fabrics by assembling a pure hemp yarn with other-fibre containing yarn. The plain knitted fabrics were produced from two-assembled hemp and three variants of cotton yarns which differed in twist level, all having the same linear density. The transport properties (air permeability, water vapour permeability and thermal resistance) of the hemp-based knitted fabrics were quantitatively analysed. The results obtained demonstrated that the introduction of cotton into hemp-based textiles reduces air and water vapour permeability with the downward trend in thermal resistance. The extent to which the transport properties varied among the hemp/cotton knitted fabrics was dependent on the twist intensity of the cotton yarns. Therefore, the yarn assembling technique is an effective way not only to combine different fibre properties but to take advantage of intrinsic properties of component yarns.     

The Specific Heat of Hygroscopic Textiles

A comparison between the qualities of open-end- and ring-spun yarns produced from Egyptian cottons is reported. Yarns of different counts and twist factors were produced on both the BD 200 open-end-spinning machine and a conventional ring-spinning machine, and their quality was studied by determining their strength, uniformity, and number of imperfections. The quality of open-end-spun yarn relative to that of ring-spun yarn is expressed in terms of the relative quality factor.

It is shown that the percentage reduction in strength of open-end-spun yarns compared with that of ring-spun yarns can be minimized by spinning them to coarser counts from shorter cottons. This is attributed to the different interactions between the fibre properties and the mechanism of yarn formation when different types of cotton are used.

It is also shown that the relative quality of open-end-spun yarns can be considerably increased by spinning them to coarser counts from Ashmouni cotton. The quality of open-end-spun yarn can exceed that of ring-spun yarn when Ashmouni cotton is spun to a linear density exceeding 30 tex.

It is concluded that the BD 200 open-end-spinning machine cannot be recommended for spinning fine yarns from long-staple Egyptian cottons.