涤纶仿真丝绸圆网条子印花工艺探讨与质量控制

涤纶仿真丝绸印花面料具有光泽自然、手感滑爽柔软、悬垂性好等优点，深受人们的喜爱，特别是条子花型面料在其印花产品中占有较大比例，其印制质量与各项工序操作密不可分。文章针对涤纶仿真丝绸条子印花的特点，提出了圆网印花前准备、印花及后处理等工序应注意的问题，在分析条子印花质量各因素的基础上，提出了一些质量控制方法。     

丝织物抗弯刚度仪的原理和研制

丝织物抗弯刚度仪是采用高精度测力传感器和位移传感器，并据纺织总会“织物弯曲试验方法”的原理研制而成的。该机设计合理，测试精度同，操作简易，使用方便能检测各种真丝与仿真丝织物的弯曲刚性。文章着重介绍了电路设计与工作原理。     

Changes in the Mechanical Properties of Silk Fabrics Modified with Epoxide and Their Relation to the Fabric Construction

An investigation is described in which the mechanical properties of silk fabrics treated with ethyleneglycol diglycidylether (EDGE) were measured in relation to variations in fabric structure in terms of weight gain. Their mechanical behaviour was determined in bending, in-plane shear, and compressional characteristics experiments. An examination of the mechanical properties of silk fabrics treated with EDGE led to the following conclusions. The value of the bending rigidity (B) in the weft direction clearly increased with an increase in weight gain, which suggested hardening of fabric. The value of the shearing stiffness (G) of the fabric in the warp direction remained unchanged in spite of the epoxide treatment, and the values of the shearing hysteresis (2HG) were linearly related to the weight gain. These results suggest that the observed changes in mechanical behaviour can be largely attributed to an increase in the contact pressure between warp and weft yarns.     

颜料墨水对织物喷墨印花的适应性能

为了探讨颜料墨水对不同织物喷墨印花的适应性,选用棉、涤纶、蚕丝、天丝、涤/棉、棉/锦、涤/锦/棉等不同纤维种类、不同组织结构的织物,采用自制六色颜料墨水在8 pass,720 dpi打印单色块,分析颜料墨水印花的颜色深度、色牢度、清晰度以及织物风格等性能。实验结果表明:打印织物表面性能是影响喷墨印花性能的主要因素之一;对亲水性纤维,结构紧密的织物可以将墨水贮留在织物表面,打印K/S值大,清晰度高,但牢度略低;对抱水性能较低的稀薄涤纶、蚕丝织物,为了确保喷墨印花的印制精细度,预处理是必要的。     

Influence of silk,like finishing on polyester fabric drapability北大核心CSCD

Silk, like finishing of pure polyester fabric has been a common industrial treatment method. This method can make polyester fabric closer to the texture of natural silk in terms of drapability and hand feeling. To study the improvement effect of silk, like finishing on fabric drapability, five types of polyester fabrics were treated in different conditions. YG811 fabric drapability tester was used to test the drape coefficient, and the main mechanical performance index was tested by the FAST fabric style tester. It is verified that the silk, like finishing conditions of and structural parameters of fabric have a significant influence on the drapability of treated fabric. For the same fabric with different silk, like finishing, its drape coefficient shows a negative correlation with weight loss ratio and has a linear relation with shear stiffness and bending rigidity. © 2018 China Silk Association. All rights reserved.     

Features of Mechanical Properties and Fabric Handle of Silk Weaves

Basic mechanical properties such as tensile, bending, shearing, compressional, and surface properties of each classified silk weave were measured by the KES-FB system, and fabric handle was obtained by the objective-evaluation method developed by Kawabata and Niwa. These values were examined and compared with those of typical thin dress fabrics. The discriminant analysis was used to distinguish each silk group clearly by primary hand values. The main features of fabric handle of each classified silk weave are as follows. Silk Habutae has high KOSHI and KISHIMI and low SHARI. Silk Dechine shows high SHINAYAKASA and low HARI. Silk Georgette has good SHINAYAKASA, but poor HARI and FUKURAML. Silk Fujiginu has a slightly high KISHIMI and a slightly low SHARI. High KOSHI and HARI with low SHINAYAKASA are distinctive features of silk Chirimen. Silk Shantung has higher KOSHI and HARI and lower SHINAYAKASA.     

A Study of the Mechanical Properties of Woven Silk Fabrics. Part I: Fabric Mechanical Properties and Handle Characterizing Woven Silk Fabrics

In order to investigate the soft handle of woven silk fabrics, their basic tensile, bending, shearing, compressional, and surface properties were measured on the KESF system. Fabric shear, compressional, and tensile properties distinguish continuous-filament silk fabrics from fabrics of other fibres. Shear stiffness and hysteresis in shear force are very small, and these fabrics are very deformable in their compressional and tensile properties at small strain levels.

High values of FUKURAMI are a characteristic of continuous-filament woven silk fabrics.     

混纺比对竹炭改性涤纶纤维/棉混纺针织物性能的影响

为了研究竹炭改性涤纶纤维/棉混纺针织物的性能,对5种不同混纺比例的竹炭改性涤纶/棉混纺针织物的各种性能进行了测试分析。结果表明,随着竹炭改性涤纶纤维含量的增加,混纺针织物的断裂强力下降,断裂伸长率下降,顶破强力逐渐下降,纵向、横向弯曲长度和织物的硬挺系数逐渐下降,柔软性提高,悬垂性和保暖性越来越好。     

印整结合的天然纤维织物转移印花

针对分散染料转移印花对纤维的局限性，采用苯乙烯接技聚合的预处理方法，将预处理剂和分散染料同浆印制转移印花纸，达到既印花又整理的目的，实现天然纤维织物的转移印花。文章以涤棉混纺、丝涤交织和真丝织物为例，对印整结合转移印花后织物的物理性能和染色牢度进行比较。     

异形改性涤纶面料与纯棉面料性能对比

研究异形改性涤纶面料的基本服用性能。测试了异形改性涤纶面料的透湿性、透气性、顶破性、刚柔性、悬垂性及耐磨性,并与纯棉面料进行了比较。结果表明:异形改性涤纶面料的透湿性、透气性、悬垂性及耐磨性均优于纯棉面料,抗顶破性能较纯棉面料差。认为:异形改性涤纶纤维适合用于开发夏季衣着用及床上用产品。     

家庭滚筒洗衣机洗涤温度对机织物外观平整性的影响

家庭滚筒洗衣机洗涤衣物时,水、洗涤温度的共同作用对织物外观平整性影响显著,合适的温度设定有助于洗衣机的参数优化。文中选取5种常见白色普通整理的机织物,在滚筒洗衣机温度分别为室温20、30、45、60、75 ℃条件下洗涤,测试其洗后外观平整度、洗涤前后弯曲刚度及剪切刚度等指标。研究发现,洗涤温度较低时,机织物外观平整度较好;洗涤温度增大时,机织物平整度降低,洗后弯曲刚度及剪切刚度减小。纯棉织物20℃与75℃洗后的平整度最大差值为1.6级;涤纶织物20℃与75℃洗后的平整度最大差值为3.8级,洗涤温度对涤纶织物平整度的影响较棉织物大。研究成果可为机织物家庭滚筒洗涤温度的设置提供依据。     

涤棉混纺织物丝光方法的探讨

分析丝光对涤棉混纺织物与纯棉织物作用的不同点;论述了影响丝光效果的因素,比较了涤棉织物的几种丝光方法的效果,探讨其丝光的最佳方法。     

摩擦纺包芯纱织物性能测试分析

对棉包涤纶长丝摩擦纱、棉包锦纶高弹丝摩擦纱、棉包锦纶全牵伸丝摩擦纱以及棉包粘胶长丝摩擦纱四种平纹织物的性能进行了试验研究 ,并将它们与纯棉环锭纱和纯棉摩擦纱的平纹织物的性能进行了比较分析。研究结果表明 ,棉包涤纶长丝摩擦纱织物和棉包锦纶高弹丝摩擦纱织物在服用、舒适等方面均优于环锭纱织物。这两种摩擦纺包芯纱织物作为服用织物具有良好的发展前景     

大豆蛋白纤维织物摩擦弯曲悬垂性能研究

为了了解大豆蛋白纤维织物的穿着舒适性,测试了大豆蛋白纤维织物的摩擦、弯曲和悬垂性能,并与蚕丝、丝素蛋白－粘胶丝、棉纤维织物进行了比较,结果表明大豆蛋白纤维织物手感滑爽、柔软,其悬垂性能优于蚕丝织物和棉纤维织物,次于丝素蛋白－粘胶丝织物。     

蚕丝/涤纶交织物染整工艺初探

本文从蚕丝、涤纶纤维特性及其差别入手,探讨丝涤织物的染整工艺条件,并相应筛选染料和随产品要求变换染色工艺。通过对比试验,对影响蚕丝/涤纶交织物风格的各道工序进行讨论,阐明丝涤交织物染整加工的技术路线和技术关键。     

涤棉织物耐久性阻燃整理工艺

涤棉织物耐久性阻燃整理难度远比纯棉及纯涤纶织物困难。为生产符合英国BS标准的涤棉混纺家具布，对阻燃整理剂进行筛选。采用纯棉耐久阻燃整理剂FK—103与涤纶耐久阻燃整理剂FK—106混合使用，再通过树脂整理达到比较理想的效果，得到客户认可。     

Investigation on permeability and moisture management properties of different denim fabrics after repeated laundering

The physiological comfort determined by air permeability and moisture management properties of fabrics is influenced by various constructional parameters of the fabric which give woven fabric a porous structure. Evaporation of sweat during wear has the potential to cool the body besides restricting the additional weight of sweat being absorbed by the fabric. In this study, comfort characteristics of denim fabrics with different weft yarn of cotton, polyester and core spun Lycra have been discussed. Effect of enzyme washing and repeated laundering on air permeability, moisture management and drying rate has also been discussed. It was observed that air permeability and water vapour permeability of unwashed denim fabrics with cotton weft yarn are significantly higher than the fabric with polyester and Lycra cotton weft yarns. The wetting time is higher for cotton and Lycra cotton yarn fabrics. One-way transport index is highest for Lycra cotton weft fabrics and lowest for fabrics with polyester weft. Fabrics with polyester weft yarns show highest spreading rate, spreading radius and drying rate due to better wicking and hydrophobic nature of polyester fibres.     

棉/单芯涤纶长丝包芯纱织物的力学性能研究

文章对棉/单芯涤纶长丝包芯纱织物的力学性能指标进行了测试分析与比较,其断裂强度和撕裂强度均高于同规格纯棉环锭纱织物,经向的拉伸强度和撕裂强度比纬向的要大,而顶破性能则比纯棉环锭纱织物差。     

织物弯曲、折皱和悬垂性能的比较研究

织物的弯曲、折皱和悬垂性能都与织物的结构参数等因素有关，通过对选用的棉、毛、丝和化纤织物进行测试分析，结果表明，织物的弯曲、折皱和悬垂性能三者之间存在着密切的关系，并随织物品种有所不同。     

Hand feeling style of spun silk/chitosan blended fabric北大核心CSCD

Spun silk and chitosan fiber were blended to fabricate spun silk/chitosan blended yarn with three blending ratios (90/10 and 80/20 and 70/30) by silk spinning technology. The silk/chitosan blended yarn and pure spun silk were used as warp and weft yarn to design and weave 16 fabrics. The 16 mechanical properties about fabric hand feeling were measured at low stress with KES-FB-AUTO fabric style instrument. Six basic style values (stiffness, flatness, suppleness, fullness, smoothness and scroopy) were calculated by Kawabata formula of women's fine dress fabrics. The results reveal that compared with a pure spun silk fabric, spun silk/chitosan blended fabrics have higher stiffness, flatness, smoothness and scroopy, but lower suppleness, and the fullness differs little. © 2017 China Silk Association. All rights reserved.