波浪作用下沙纹床面上底部剪应力的实验研究

在沙质床面上传播的波浪当其强度超过一定条件时,将使沙质床面的形态发生变化而形成沙纹床面,沙纹床面上的底部剪应力与平床面上的底部剪应力有不同的形成机理。而沙纹床面上底部剪应力的研究是波浪沿程衰减和输沙研究的基础。本研究成功地实测了沙纹床面上的底面剪应力,并根据实验成果给出了沙纹床面底部摩阻系数和剪应力的计算公式。     

波浪作用下软泥床面的粘性泥沙悬扬

本文考虑波浪与软泥床面相互作用，建立了计算软泥床面上波浪剪应力的理论模型.计算结果表明，床面运动对波浪床面剪应力的影响很大.对波浪作用下粘性泥沙悬扬进行了实验研究，得到了不同密度泥床粘性泥沙悬扬的临界剪切力与泥沙流变参数的关系，并与水流作用下粘性泥沙悬扬的结果进行了比较。     

近岛礁波浪谱演化逆问题研究

波浪从深水区传播到岛礁附近,受海底地形影响将发生一系列复杂的浅水变形,且根据已有现场观测资料发现其波浪谱型与目前常用的海浪谱存在明显的差异。该文基于随机波浪理论,通过近岛礁波浪谱的演化分析,解决了在模型试验中如何生成符合岛礁附近特殊波浪谱型这一波浪演化的逆问题,并通过近岛礁水池模型试验数据验证了该方法的准确性和可行性,为后续模型试验中近岛礁波浪演化的精确模拟奠定了基础。     

台风浪对长江口深水航道骤淤的影响研究

概述风暴对长江口航槽短期地形变化的影响和研究现状，将缓坡方程、Boussinesq方程和动谱平衡方程进行分析比较，选择后者做为长江口台风浪数值预报模式。介绍球坐标下动谱平衡方程模型及方程右端源汇项的处理方法，以9912号台风对波浪数值模型进行验证。数值预报EES向20m/s风场下深水航道水域波浪要素：有效波高分布和波浪水质点底部轨迹运动速度分布。由泥沙起动底流速公式得到深水航道水域底沙起动底流速场，根据长江口波浪水质点底部轨迹运动速度的均方根值与泥沙的起动底流速之差的分布场进行骤淤机理分析。结果表明在EES向20m／s风场作用下横沙浅滩和九段沙浅滩的大部分水域底部泥沙将被掀扬至水体，部分泥沙在跨槽水流带动下会进入航道而造成严重淤积。最后提出研究长江口深水航道风暴骤淤问题的进一步工作。     

κ—ε模型在紊流波浪底部边界层中的应用

本文采用数值方法，用κ－ε模型对紊流波浪底部边界层进行了研究，数值求解中用有限体积法得到了边界层中速度场，紊动功能场及紊动动能耗散率场，并用实验加以验证，两者结果一致。     

k－ε模型在紊流波浪底部边界层中的应用

本文采用数值方法，用ｋ－ε模型对紊流波浪底部边界层进行了研究。数值求解中用有限体积法得到了边界层中速度场、紊动动能场及亲动动能耗散率场，并用实验加以验证，两者结果一致。     

波浪作用上软泥床面的粘性泥沙县扬

本文考虑波浪与软泥床面相互作用，建立了计算软泥床面上波浪剪应力的理论模型。     

随机波浪力连续场的降维模拟

根据水质点的水平速度和加速度过程的功率谱密度,利用线性化的Morison方程,从平稳随机过程自相关函数的角度推导了随机波浪力的功率谱密度函数。在平稳随机过程的源谱表达基础上,通过将标准正交随机变量集定义为仅含1个基本随机变量的正交函数形式,实现了随机波浪力连续场的降维模拟。同时,结合快速傅里叶变换（FFT）技术,给出了随机波浪力连续场降维模拟的快速算法。应用该方法对某一单个小尺度直立圆柱桩所受的随机波浪力进行模拟,给出了随机波浪力过程的均值、标准差、自相关函数及互相关函数等数值特征,并与Monte Carlo方法的结果进行对比分析。研究表明,降维模拟方法具有较高的模拟精度与效率。     

多向聚焦波浪作用下直立圆柱受力的实验研究

利用波能聚焦的方法在水池中模拟产生多向聚焦波浪,研究了多向极限大波作用在垂直圆柱上引起的波浪力的特点。实验中研究了不同的波浪参数,如聚焦波幅、谱峰频率、频率宽度和方向分布等多向聚焦波浪对圆柱作用的影响,并将实验结果与二维实验结果进行了比较。结果表明聚焦波浪参数对圆柱作用力具有明显的影响,并且实验结果与二维规则波结果相当,但比二维聚焦波浪实验结果要小。     

气泡在波浪中运动的实验研究

本文对气泡在波浪中的运动进行了实验研究，得到了气泡在波浪中运动的平均上升速度及上升运动轨迹，并同理论进行了比较。发现当气泡直径小于１ｍｍ时，气泡在波浪中的平均上升速度与静水中的稳定上升速度基本一致，波浪的影响很小，且是随机的。当气泡直径大于１ｍｍ时，气泡在波浪中的平均上升速度不再随直径增大而增大，而是趋向于某一定值。这与气泡在静水中稳定上升速度的变化趋势是一致的。当气泡直径小于１ｍｍ且气泡到液面的     

推进波作用下的底泥起动

在介绍推进波作用下底泥起动特点的基础上，将上层水体作为粘性流体，底泥作为粘弹性体，推导了推进波作用下泥床面剪应力的表达式，并根据试验结果，给出了推进波作用下底泥起动时的床面剪应力与底泥流变参数的关系。     

立波作用下的底泥起动

在介绍立波作用下底泥起动特点的基础上，将上层水体作为粘性流体、底泥作为粘弹性体、推导了立波作用下泥床面剪应力的表达式。并根据试验结果，给出了立波作用下底泥起动时的床面剪应力和底泥流变参数的关系。     

Impacts of wind waves on sediment transport in a large,shallow lake

Lake Okeechobee is a large, shallow subtropical lake, located in south Florida. Over the last several decades, Lake Okeechobee has experienced accelerated eutrophication due to excessive phosphorus loads from agricultural run‐off. Recycling of phosphorus from bottom sediments through resuspension is critical to addressing eutrophication of the lake and for water quality management. The present study investigates the impacts of wind waves on sediment transport in Lake Okeechobee, using measured data and the Lake Okeechobee Environmental Model (LOEM). The LOEM was fully calibrated and verified with more than 10 years of measured data in previous studies. Analysis of the measured data indicates significant wave height (SWH) and suspended sediment concentration are closely correlated to the wind speed in the lake. The nonlinear interaction of high‐frequency wind waves with relatively low‐frequency currents in the boundary layer plays a key role in sediment deposition/resuspension. Without considering the effects of wind waves, the bottom shear stress can be greatly underestimated. The spatial variations of key variables for sediment modelling, including SWH, water depth, orbital velocity, current velocity, bottom shear stress and sediment concentration, are discussed. In general, the near‐bottom wave velocity (and the associated bottom shear stress) is greater than or the same order of magnitude as the near‐bed current velocity (and the associated bottom shear stress) in this shallow water system. Although the sediment zones of Lake Okeechobee were described in previous studies, few published papers discussed its formation mechanisms. The findings of the present study include that the multiyear averaged bottom shear stress with wind‐wave effect plays a key role in forming the spatial patterns of the sediment zones. The study results are currently being used in lake management and in developing strategies for reducing phosphorus in the lake.     

A NEW MEASURE FOR DIRECT MEASUREMENT OF THE BED SHEAR STRESS OF WAVE BOUNDARY LAYER IN WAVE FLUME

In this article, a shear plate was mounted on the bottom in a wave flume and direct measurements of the smooth and rough bed shear stress under regular and irregular waves were conducted with the horizontal force exerted on the shear plates by the bottom shear stress in the wave boundary layer. Under immobile bed condition, grains of sand were glued uniformly and tightly onto the shear plate, being prevented from motion with the fluid flow and generation of sand ripples. The distribution of the bottom mean shear stress varying with time was measured by examining the interaction between the shear plate and shear transducers. The relation between the force measured by the shear transducers and its voltage is a linear one. Simultaneous measurements of the bottom velocity were carried out by an Acoustic Doppler Velocimeter (ADV), while the whole process was completely controlled by computers, bottom shear stress and velocity were synchronously measured. Based on the experimental results, it can be concluded that (1) the friction coefficient groews considerably with the increase of the Reynolds number, (2) the shear stress is a function varying with time and linearly proportional to the velocity. Compared with theoretical results and previous experimental data, it is shown that the experimental method is feasible and effective, A further study on the bed shear stress under regular or irregular waves can be carried out. And applicability to the laboratory studies on the initiation of sediments and the measurement of the shear stress after sediment imigration.     

BOTTOM SHEAR STRESS UNDER WAVE-CURRENT INTERACTION

The present work adopts the COHERENS-SWAN model developed by the first author through coupling three-dimensional hydrodynamic model （COHERENS） and third-generation wave model （SWAN）. Inside the COHERENS-SWAN, the SWAN is regarded as a subroutine and the time- and space-varying current velocity and surface elevation are obtained from the COHERENS. Wave-enhanced bottom shear stress, wave induced surface mixing length and wave dependent surface drag coefficient have been introduced into the COHERENS. Secondly, as wave-enhanced bottom shear stress （＂bottom shear stress＂ described as BSS sometimes in this article） is concerned, a modified bottom shear stress Grant and Madsen model which introduces random wave field is given and introduced to COHERENS-SWAN. COHERENS-SWAN is also adopted to simulate three-dimensional flow in the Yellow River Delta with wave-current co-existing. Four numerical experiments were given to study the effects of wave-current interaction on enhancing bottom shear stress. The simulated current velocities, wave height and wave period match well with field measurement data. The simulated significant wave height and wave period for the case with considering the effects of current can give better agreement with measurement data than the case without involving the effects of current. The introduction of random wave generates lower the bottom shear stress than the case without introducing it. There are obvious differences between bottom shear stress of two way interaction and one way interaction. Velocity field obtained by the COHERENS-SWAN is reasonable according to previous studies and measurements.     

波浪潮流共同作用下长兴岛海区二维悬沙输运数值模拟研究

根据近岸地区波浪、潮流与泥沙运动的规律,把波浪运动概化为在潮周期中具有时均意义的波浪流分布场,将波浪辐射应力以及波流底部剪切应力耦合到潮流运动方程和悬沙输运方程中,建立了非结构网格下近岸波浪和潮流共同作用下的二维悬沙输运数值模型。时间离散采用欧拉向前格式,空间离散采用有限体积法的显式格式。将模型应用于矩形海湾实验和大连长兴岛附近海区悬沙冲淤过程的实际算例。结果表明:波浪对潮位影响很小,但是对近岸流速有较为明显的影响;波流共同作用对近岸泥沙浓度影响比单纯考虑潮流作用可提高40%～100%的幅度。     

球面-Rossby波的波谱分析和计算

用正压涡度方程分析了球面-Rossby波的波谱特征,给出了连续谱出现的条件和范围,计算出了球面-Rossby波的特征结构。结果表明:球面-Rossby波在基流角速度存在切变时可出现连续谱,其波谱是由离散谱和连续谱共同组成,连续谱和离散谱的谱函数不同,离散谱的谱函数表现为在子午圈上不同节点的波动,而连续谱的谱的谱函数表现为在子午圈上的某个纬度上出现了跳跃。     

Wave Action and Bottom Shear Stresses in Lake Erie

For Lake Erie, the amplitudes and periods of wind-driven, surface gravity waves were calculated by means of the SMB hindcasting method. Bottom orbital velocities and bottom shear stresses were then calculated using linear wave theory and Kajiura's (1968) turbulent oscillating boundary layer analysis. These calculations were made for south-west and north wind directions and a steady wind speed of 40 km hr^?1. Calculated bottom shear stresses are related to the textural properties of surficial Lake Erie sediments as determined by Thomas et al. (1976). The bottom shear stresses, especially under prevailing southwest wind conditions, control the textural characteristics of surface sediments in Lake Erie. In particular, wave-induced bottom shear stresses are probably the most important energy source for sediment entrainment.     

珊瑚岛礁护岸对礁坪上极端波浪传播特性的影响

极端波浪要素是珊瑚岛礁护岸工程设计的重要参数。利用大比尺波浪水槽,采用1: 15的模型比尺开展试验,从波浪形态、增水、波速、波谱等方面研究了珊瑚岛礁护岸对礁坪上极端波浪传播特性的影响规律。护岸工程产生了明显的阻水效应:对于波浪形态,反射波的影响使得波浪在礁缘破碎更为剧烈; 显著增加了礁坪增水,最大增水值是自然地形下的4倍,影响在波周期较短时更为显著; 减小了波速约20%~35%,其影响随波周期的减小而增强; 对于波谱,护岸的存在使得波浪的非线性相互作用更加复杂,降低了波浪在礁缘处的主频能量,但同时增大了礁坪上的主频及高频能量; 护岸距礁缘距离对堤前水位具有重要影响,随该距离的增加,堤前时均水位先增加后降低。     

直立堤前能谱与反射系数和底流速的综合分析

通过波谱分析的方法，研究了堤前能谱，反射系数和底流速的各自分布规律，分析了它们的相互关系：从堤前能谱表达式推导出反射系数的表达式，并将该反射系数用于求堤前任意位置的底流速，给出了堤前与入射波的底流速的统一形式，实验及计算表明，在无基床条件下得到的堤前能谱和底流速关系可推广到低基床的相应情况。