Hatchery Flounder Going Wild: Authenticity,Aesthetics, and Fetishism of Fish in Japan

This article—based on ethnographic research on fish stocking and discourses surrounding authenticity, aesthetics, and taste of wild fish in Japan—examines the cultural production of the “wilderness.” While Japan's seafood culture has long historical roots, this fetishism of wild fish is a product of the recent advancement of fisheries technology, namely aquaculture and fish stocking. The expansion of aquaculture has shaped not only the notion of the “cultivated” but also that of the “wild.” Simultaneously, the development of fish stocking—the national project to enhance wild fish stocks by releasing hatchery-bred juveniles into the ocean—has also contributed to the reimagining of the authenticity of “wild” fish while complicating it. By looking at flounder, one of the most popular species for fish stocking, this article reveals that tasting “wilderness” is a multisensory experience that reflects not only gustatory but also visual dimensions.     

Bottom-up Food: Making Rāmen a Gourmet Food in Tokyo

This article introduces the Japanese concept of kodawari—meaning obession and a detailed personal aesthetic—as an analytical category to think about the process by which everyday foods are valorized as gourmet. I show that the kodawari of chefs and consumers influence each other and combine to create an aesthetic appreciation of rāmen noodles, elevating it from its inexpensive background to an object of gourmet desire in contemporary Japan. Kodawari is an individual experience, and chefs develop their own techniques to make their rāmen bowls stand out. Likewise, consumers learn to appreciate the personal touches of chefs and shops, while at the same time developing their own complex sensorial appreciation for rāmen from their individual vantage point. Based on ethnographic fieldwork in rāmen shops in Tokyo with chefs and aficionados, this article shows how their efforts result in the valorization of an everyday food item.     

一个资深酒鬼情人节选酒的演变

酒海历练跟情海历练的追求不同。关于爱情,我们最理想的状态是找到可以相濡以沬和长相廝守的灵魂伴侣;而关于葡萄酒,我们最理想的历练是喝遍世间美酒,然后记住一些我们钟爱的酒款!     

Dynamic changes of taste experiences in wine and cheese combinations

The ideal cheese and wine combination might be relatively subjective, depending on personal preference, context factors, previous knowledge and experience of food and wine. The aim of this study was to (I) explore consumer liking for wine and cheese pairs; to (II) explore whether either wine or cheese dominates a combination and to (III) understand the relationship between consumer liking and the dynamic taste experience. Consumer testing was performed in a restaurant setting where 45 consumers evaluated liking and dominance of combinations of cheese and wine as a part of a conference lunch. In a laboratory, Temporal Dominance of Sensation (TDS) was used to analyse the dynamic responses of five wines and Roquefort Société tasted in a mixed tasting. Results show significant differences between the wines for dominance and liking for the wines and cheese. A sweet and fruity dessert wine together with the cheese scored high for liking and no dominance was indicated of either wine or cheese. TDS is found to be a useful method to provide additional information about sensory attributes that give a high liking score, showing the dynamic in the eating process.     

影响评酒准确性的因素探讨

评酒是通过感觉器官来判断酒质的重要手段，评酒的准确性受诸多因素的影响，包括：情绪因素，情绪稳定，注意力集中，味觉嗅觉细胞较活跃，品评正确性高，感情因素，评酒员应克服感情因素，做到公平，公正；基本素质，要熟悉各种酒及其香味成分，掌握评分标准，提高自身素质；身体健康状况，身体不适，品评准确性将大打折扣，保持身体健康，是评酒的基本条件；品酒顺序，要克服品评的效应影响，反复对比，品评环境，应保持安静，光线柔和，气温宜人，此外，生活环境，消费观念，学术水平等对评酒准确性都有一定影响。     

THE EFFECT OF GLASS SHAPE ON THE CONCENTRATION OF POLYPHENOLIC COMPOUNDS AND PERCEPTION OF MERLOT WINE

Accepted opinion among wine connoisseurs is that size and shape of a glass used to serve wine can affect color and flavor of wine. Glass manufacturers and the wine industry could benefit from a greater understanding of the relationship between glass shape and wine appreciation. However, extensive oxidation may reduce antioxidative properties of polyphenolics that are highly prized in red wines. The objective of this study was to determine the effect of geometries of three glass types (Flute, Bordeaux, Martini) on sensory perception and concentration of polyphenolic compounds in Merlot wine as a function of time. Sensory evaluation was conducted with a 12‐member panel. Triangle tests were chosen to determine whether any difference in flavor could be perceived between samples stored for 0, 15 and 30 min in the three glass types. Phenolic compounds, gallic acid, caffeic acid, catechin and vanillin, were quantified using HPLC. Results indicated that the panelists could not perceive differences between wine served in different glasses even if it was exposed to air for 30 min at room temperature. Although concentration of phenolics, especially gallic acid, was affected by the exposure to air, changes were not profound enough to affect the sensory qualities of Merlot wine as judged by occasional wine drinkers.     

《品鉴红酒》中存在的几个误区

随着红酒消费热,介绍红酒、品鉴红酒的著作也越来越多,为提升消费者的品酒和鉴赏能力起到了很好的作用.但研究发现,许多关于品鉴红酒和葡萄酒酿造的著作中存在一些片面的、错误的内容或观点.以《品鉴红酒》一书为例,指出了该书在介绍葡萄酒中的糖、酸、营养素、铁以及橡木桶陈酿等方面存在的误区,并提出自己的看法.同时,从这些方面反映出培养葡萄酒专业人才的必要性.     

葡萄酒品尝过程中的美感

葡萄酒一般清亮、晶莹、透明、有光泽，具有令人愉悦的外观和回味无穷的内涵，因而葡萄酒具有美学特性。葡萄酒品尝过程中美感活动是一种逐渐深化的过程，美感的形成机理研究介于哲学辩证法的借入，诠释葡萄酒品尝过程中美感形成的机理。由葡萄酒品尝过程中主观、客观存在的美感追溯其美感内涵，以提升葡萄酒品尝者对葡萄酒的欣赏水准，倡导葡萄酒消费审美文化，引领葡萄酒时尚品味，旨在使葡萄酒品尝者通过葡萄酒品尝，怡神悦意、净化心灵、完善人格、激励斗志、升华境界。     

Determining consumer purchase intentions: the importance of dry matter, size, and price of kiwifruit

Abstract: Knowledge of the relative importance of food quality attributes in determining consumer purchase intention is critical for robust assessment of economic opportunities for industry growth. The aim of this study is to demonstrate how conjoint analysis methodology that incorporates tasting of fruit can be used to collect such information. Three hundred Japanese consumers took part in research designed to measure the importance of dry matter (DM), size, and price of kiwifruit (Actinidia deliciosa “Hayward” and Actinidia chinensis “Hort16A”) for purchase intention. Measurement of consumer liking for kiwifruit of different DM content was a key first step. Liking increased as DM increased and was accompanied by increased purchase likelihood/choice probability for kiwifruit. The size of kiwifruit presented to consumers varied from “small” to “extra large.” Consumers liked “mid‐sized” kiwifruit over “small” or “extra‐large” kiwifruit. Despite these differences in liking, size was of little importance in determining purchase likelihood/choice probability for kiwifruit. Price was a very important factor in determining purchase likelihood/choice probability but was less important than DM content. As price increased, purchase likelihood/choice probability decreased. Beneath these general findings, heterogeneity existed. Some consumers placed more/less importance on the focal purchase drivers than suggested by the aggregate model. Overall, the results suggest that incentive schemes already implemented by industry should consider rewarding high‐DM fruit more than fruit size. Practical Application: This research has contributed to the New Zealand kiwifruit industry gaining a better understanding of the relative importance consumers place on DM, size, and price of kiwifruit and has resulted in changes to grower incentive schemes. The research approach presented forces consumer to tradeoff attributes of kiwifruit against each other and decide on how important two key quality attributes—DM and size—are relative to each other and relative to price. The application of conjoint analysis in this article can be transferred to other fruits, food, and beverages and help guide consumer‐led innovation.     

Role of consumers' environmental views on purchases at wineries

The purpose of this research is to explore how winery consumers' sustainability attitudes and subjective norms influence their intentions to purchase wines from wineries which have adopted an environmental management program. We collected data in the naturalistic setting of winery tasting rooms. The wineries we researched receive a large number of visitors and a significant portion of total sales volume results from direct sales to consumers in their tasting rooms. Our findings indicate that both sustainability attitudes and subjective norms are significant predictors of intentions explaining over half of the variation in behavioral intentions to purchase wine from a winery participating in an environmental management program. In addition, environmental organization members were found to have higher levels of these antecedents to behavioral intentions and were more interested in receiving information about the environmental activities of wine producers.     

酒的种类

白酒的种类按照制造工艺基本上可分为三大类,即发酵酒(酿造酒)、蒸馏酒与配制饮料酒(简称配制酒).发酵酒是指用谷物、果汁等为原料,经发酵而得的低度酒;蒸馏酒是指把上述发酵原酒或发酵醪以及酒醅等通过蒸馏而得的高度蒸馏酒液;配制饮料酒主要是以发酵原酒或蒸馏酒为酒基,配以一定的物料呈色,香、味,经过规定的工艺过程调配而成.     

The hybrid grape chambourcin has a role in quality red V. vinifera blends in a New World grape growing region

Chambourcin is a hybrid red wine grape that can consistently produce high-quality wine in many humid climate New World sites including New Jersey and much of the mid-Atlantic region of the United States. Many of these regions can also produce high-quality V. vinifera-based red wine blends. This study examined the influence of chambourcin on the quality of red wine blends of V. vinifera varieties in blinded tasting sessions involving three groups: consumers, wine professionals (non-winemaking), and commercial wine makers. Consumers preferred or rated equally the chambourcin containing blend to the non-chambourcin containing blend. Among wine professionals and commercial wine makers, there was no preference among blends. Even experienced wine makers could not identify wines containing chambourcin and did not rate wines lower if they thought the wines contained chambourcin. This study suggests chambourcin does not detract and rather may enhance high-quality red wine blends and further suggests that wine blend categorization may be better based on hedonic character and not grape genetic heritage. Inclusion of high-quality hybrid grapes, like chambourcin, in red blends of V. vinifera may enhance sustainability of viticulture in New World grape growing regions without sacrifice in the quality of wine that can be produced.     

Representational and sensory cues as drivers of individual differences in expert quality assessment of red wines

The aim of this study was to model decisional consensus in expert red wine tastings, using an integrated competency framework. Wine assessment responses on both technical and emotional scales were collated for two wine categories (Premium vs. Secondary) under several different sensory conditions: six global tastings (all senses involved), three unimodal tastings (visual, smell, and taste), and three bimodal tastings (visual-smell, visual–taste, and taste–smell). Psychological predictors also included vocabulary and vividness of mental imagery associated with the various senses involved, together with professional experience indicators (age and tasting frequency). Principal component analyses revealed a greater response consensus with unimodal vision cues compared to all other sensory conditions (at least equal to global conditions). On average, a greater consensus was observed among technical quality scale responses under all sensory conditions, compared to emotional scale responses. The quality responses were used to build a 4-factor prediction model: age, wine imagery, vocabulary, and smell consensus. The image responses were used to build a two-factor prediction model: visual words (semantic knowledge) and visual-smell consensus. This indicated that the quality decisional consensus was based on smell information (wine aroma), combined with longevity/knowledge. In contrast, the image decisional consensus was based on visual information (wine color), combined with visual knowledge (and smell as a subordinate factor). Taken together, our results revealed previously uncharted individual differences in wine tasting and decision-making, concomitant with similarly weighted predictions based on sensory and psychological factors.     

葡萄酒品尝过程中美感的形成机理

葡萄酒一般清亮、晶莹、透明、有光泽，具有令人愉悦的外观和回味无穷的内涵，因而葡萄酒具有美学特性。葡萄酒品尝过程中美感活动是一种逐渐深化的过程，美感的形成机理研究由于哲学辩证法的借入，诠释葡萄酒品尝过程中美感形成的机理。由葡萄酒品尝过程中主观、客观存在的美感追溯其美感内涵，以提升葡萄酒品尝者对葡萄酒的欣赏水准，倡导葡萄酒消费审美文化，引领葡萄酒时尚品味，旨在使葡萄酒品尝者通过葡萄酒品尝，怡神悦意、净化心灵、完善人格、激励斗志、升华境界。     

The roles of schema incongruity and expertise in consumers’ wine judgment

Broadening the present understanding of how expertise moderates the schema-incongruity effect (i.e., the notion that a product moderately incongruent with the schema evoked for it in memory is associated with a comparatively positive product evaluation), this study argues that people with higher, not lower, degrees of expertise experience incongruity and prefer moderately incongruent products over congruent ones. Because people with low expertise in complex product categories lack a developed schema against which to assess encountered products, they will be insensitive to incongruity. People with high expertise, on the other hand, typically have developed schemata and can therefore perceive incongruity and respond accordingly.Consumers with different levels of wine expertise participated in a study in which they were given congruent or incongruent information, as well as different levels of information elaboration, about a wine prior to tasting and evaluating it. The results of this study support the above argument: Expertise moderates the incongruity effect such that it is prevalent only for experts, and schema-level processing moderates expertise’s moderating effect on the incongruity effect.