内蒙古察哈尔蒙古族传统服饰的简繁艺术特征解读

察哈尔传统服饰是蒙古族28个部落传统服饰中的一支,具有突出的形制之简、色彩之素、头饰之繁、佩饰之多的艺术特征,在众多的蒙古族服饰中独树一帜。文章通过对察哈尔蒙古族现主要居住地锡林郭勒和乌兰察布地区的田野调查和历史文献调研,运用艺术学和民俗学的视角,概括其独特的简繁艺术特点,探讨该族群如何通过适简与从繁的服饰礼仪功能来构建民俗生活。研究表明,察哈尔蒙古族传统服饰的简与繁不仅是一种艺术特征,也是族群历史记忆的载体和身份建构的工具,其形成原因受到历史中军事职能、宫廷文化和游牧生活三者的共同塑造,并影响至今。     

基于IP视角下白裤瑶服饰文化保护研究

保护非物质文化遗产的难点主要在于"非遗"很难接地气,导致传承不能很好地进行。白裤瑶服饰是国家级非物质文化遗产,如何更好地保护和发展白裤瑶服饰文化成为众多学者关注的问题。文章以IP为视角,对白裤瑶服饰文化展开保护路径的研究,提出白裤瑶服饰文化IP的发展路径要从深入发掘白裤瑶服饰文化内核,运用现代科技辅助IP建构,打造有情感、年轻化的白裤瑶文化IP,产学研用结合发展,跨界合作等方面进行,旨在为保护白裤瑶服饰文化尽绵薄之力。     

舞台灯光对服饰视觉色感的影响研究

在舞台表演中,舞台灯光对人物服饰色彩的视觉体验有很大影响。文章基于光源、布料光谱信息和CIE-1931色度模型,模拟出计算面料色彩推测公式。并选取三种不同色调的LED光源作为舞台灯光,分别对七种面料进行色彩分析,发现深长春花蓝色、中蓝色面料在三种灯光下的色相变化不明显,与太阳光下呈现色彩接近;丁香紫色和兰花紫色面料与灯光色彩倾向一致;金黄色、橙红色和兰花紫色三种颜色在蓝光强烈情况下的色彩视认性更强。最后,结合舞台色彩的视认性和色彩的意象,为舞台服装设计与灯光设计在视觉色感的选择提供帮助。     

民族服装元素在影视服装设计中的创新研究

当前,我国社会越来越重视传统文化的发扬与传播,传播最主要以及最有效的途径便是通过影视媒体。在我国的影视界以及服装设计行业中,带有民族特色元素的服装一直被广泛地采用,对于影视古装剧来说,传统服装元素必不可少。汉服在我国影视服装设计中较为常见,在现代也受到了人们的广泛追捧,本课题主要针对汉民族的服饰特点及其蕴含的元素展开分析,提出民族服饰元素在影视服装设计中的创新思想。     

罗衣从风·融汇创新——国家艺术基金“敦煌服饰创新设计人才培养”项目综述

本文以2019年度国家艺术基金"敦煌服饰创新设计人才培养"项目申报和实施为依据,通过探究项目的文化特质和艺术特色,提出项目以理论先行、融汇贯通、创新设计为主导的实施要旨,分析了代表性作品的创新风格,进一步明确了敦煌服饰文化研究及创新设计的基本趋向。     

探篹雅故·格物致知——北京服装学院中国古代服饰研究范式述要

中国古代服饰文明悠久深厚,真实记录了中华民族的社会发展历程,其中包括服饰典章制度、社会习俗、技术工艺、文化审美等诸多领域的丰富资料和成就。它是一座文明的宝库,是向世界展现中华民族生生不息文化传统的一个窗口。近年来,北京服装学院不断探索中国古代服饰研究的新范式,尝试从多学科、多领域、多视角展开研究,本文即是对这项工作的述要。     

Research on image segmentation of Miao costume patterns based on the RSKP-UNet model北大核心CSCD

The Miao nationality is the sixth largest ethnic group in China which has a history of thousands of years. It has created a unique material culture and spiritual culture in its development process and the Miao costume is a highly condensed collection of the material and spiritual culture of the Miao nationality. As one of the unique symbols of Miao culture the Miao costume has profound cultural heritage and cultural connotations. The patterns of the Miao costume are particularly eye-catching as they not only symbolize the wisdom of the Miao people in thousands of years of production and life but also symbolize the pursuit of the good spirit of the Miao people. However under the impact of modern pop culture and foreign culture these cultural symbols are gradually disappearing. In order to protect and inherit them the Miao costume pattern segmentation has become the most important work. However the Miao costume pattern segmentation is quite difficult. At present there are few studies on the extraction classification identification and preservation of the features of Miao costume pattern segmentation. With the excellent segmentation performance of the U-Net model and the advantages of easy deployment the paper improves the basic structure of the U-Net model and proposes a Miao costume pattern segmentation algorithm based on the RSKP-UNet Residual Selective-Kernel Parallel U-Net model. The algorithm adds Residual modules in the encoder part of the U-Net model to improve the feature extraction capability of the model and embeds the SKNet modules and ParNet modules in the decoder part to enhance the feature expression capability of the model. The paper uses evaluation metrics to measure the segmentation performance of the model and compares it with four segmentation models based on deep learning. The paper not only combines the current research focus-deep learning and attention mechanism but also introduces the Lovász-hinge loss function to effectively solve the problem of class imbalance in the Miao costume patterns. The RSKP-UNet model is better than other models in various segmentation indicators. Compared with the benchmark model U-Net the Dice coefficient IoU precision recall and accuracy are improved by 6. 98% 11. 07% 2. 89% 6. 75% and 3. 92% . The segmentation algorithm proposed in this paper realizes the extraction of the element content of the Miao costume patterns through image segmentation of Miao costume patterns which can be used to build the Miao costume pattern database in this way thus helping designers relevant researchers and organizations to provide research foundation and completing the protection and inheritance of the Miao costume culture. The paper also provides some reference for the segmentation research of other minority costume patterns. © 2022 Authors. All rights reserved.     

Improving Ideality of P-Type Organic Field-Effect Transistors via Preventing Undesired Minority Carrier Injection

Electron injection plays a crucial role in arousing the double-slope characteristics for p-type organic field-effect transistors (OFETs) with narrow-bandgap organic semiconductors (OSCs). This issue will not only result in the misrepresentation of OFET performance but also may cause device instability, hence impeding their further development in real-world applications. A facile and highly efficient approach is developed to circumvent this issue by implementing modification on the electrode/organic semiconductor interface. An ultrathin layer of wide-bandgap OSC with suitable energy levels is introduced to block the undesirable electron injection. By this means, typical double-slope behaviors and bias stress stability in the p-type OFETs can be significantly improved. Using 2,8-difluoro-5,11-bis(triethylsilylethynyl) anthradithiophene-based OFETs the double-slope behaviors of as-fabricated devices are effectively converted to near-ideal behaviors after modification, leading to a dramatic improvement of average reliability from 65.11% to 91.76%. Furthermore, the positive drift of transfer curves under prolonged bias stress is also successfully suppressed. This strategy demonstrates good universality and can provide a new guideline for the fabrication of OFETs with ideal behaviors.     

旅游驱动的少数民族建筑景观变迁研究——以九寨沟为例

旅游发展驱动的少数民族建筑景观的变迁,是旅游对区域文化影响的重要表现.文章通过对九寨沟树正寨的实地问卷与深入访谈调查,分析了居民和游客对藏寨建筑景观特色变迁的感知,认为居民对藏寨建筑景观的特色并没有清晰的认识,保护没有得到重视,而游客也缺乏对真实藏族传统文化的认识.研究认为,少数民族旅游地传统民族文化的保护,重在认清民族文化的差异和精华,增强当地居民的自我认同,促进社区居民参与旅游规划和管理,培养主人意识,形成对民族文化保护和传承的自觉性;同时还需要深化旅游地的管理,以引导为主,积极应对经济水平提高以后居民对生活环境改造的合理要求.     

土家族吊脚楼的建造特点——以鄂西彭家寨古建测绘为例

以鄂西彭家寨的吊脚楼群为例,在建筑实地测绘基础上,从建筑选址、空间布局、建造技术、文化传承等角度对土家族吊脚楼这一独特而优美的传统建筑形式进行描述.