纳米微胶囊技术与纳米化妆品研究进展

本文着重阐述了有关纳米胶囊的制备方法及最新研究进展,并展望了纳米技术及纳米微胶囊在化妆品领域的应用前景.     

果酸脂质体的制备、检测及应用

以大豆卵磷脂为包封材料 ,用反相蒸发法制备果酸脂质体。并用透射电子显微镜表征了其形态结构 ,证实其直径在1 0 0纳米～ 2 0 0纳米之间。研究了果酸浓度对包封率 ,稳定剂浓度对脂质体稳定性的影响。结果表明 ,果酸浓度为 0 .3mg/ml时可以得到较好的包封率 ,丙二醇的适宜浓度是 5 % -1 5 % ,最终将脂质体应用于化妆品中 ,并证明是可行的     

Enhanced bioactivity of Zanthoxylum schinifolium fermented extract: Anti-inflammatory,anti-bacterial,and anti-melanogenic activity

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神经酰胺脂质体——含角质层脂质膜的脂质体

角质层的渗透屏障大多是由饱和脂质如神经酰胺、胆固醇和游离脂肪酸组成。它是物质交换的有效阻隔并防止皮肤干燥。神经酰胺脂质体(Cerasomes)是一种脂质体,它的膜是由最重要的角质层脂质组成的。神经酰胺脂质体作为类皮肤膜的来源,它能加快受损屏障层的再生、降低皮肤刺激,并且它还提供了将角质层脂质应用于化妆品中简单而有效的途径。     

The Application of Mealworm (Tenebrio molitor) Oil in Cosmetic Formulations

The depletion of natural resources, the increasing use of valuable land surface for human activities, and the generation of waste are detrimental to the planet. Sustainable alternatives to guarantee a sufficient supply of food, feed, and biomaterials are needed. Insects may hold an interesting position in a circular economy to tackle contemporary societal challenges. Using insects for food, feed, biomaterial production, and to valorize side-streams, have gained increased interest. Mealworms are amenable to large-scale farming. Herein, the potential of mealworm oil for implementation in a cosmetic hand cream is evaluated. It is shown that mealworms are rich in oil (≈30% of the dry weight), and the oil can be extracted using hexane or ethyl acetate as a solvent. The euthanization step of mealworms has profound effect on the free fatty acid content. The fatty acid profile indicates a large proportion of unsaturated fatty acids, which is promising for use in cosmetic applications. In a proof of concept, the mealworm oil is implemented in a hand cream and compared to hand cream containing macadamia nut oil. No differences in odor and aspect/stability are observed, but mealworm creams are slightly less white color. Mealworm oil is suitable for cosmetics applications. Practical applications: Several insect species can be sustainably reared on low-value organic side-streams, requiring only small amounts of land-surface, less water, and producing less greenhouse gases. In addition, they have short life cycles and can be reared continuously and locally. This implies that insects are an interesting source of biological materials including proteins and oils. Insect oils, including oil of mealworms, have interesting fatty acid profiles that make them amenable to replace oils of vegetable origin for applications within cosmetics. The results indicate that mealworm oil can be a novel, sustainable ingredient for use in the cosmetics industry.     

高效液相色谱法同时测定化妆品中乙内酰脲和DMDM乙内酰脲

建立了同时测定水剂和膏霜化妆品中乙内酰脲和DMDM乙内酰脲的高效液相色谱分析方法。样品用甲醇-乙腈超声提取后用经氨基柱(4.6 mm×250 mm,5.0μm)分离,采用水-乙腈作为流动相,二极管阵列检测器进行检测,检测波长为210 nm,外标法定量。在优化的实验条件下,乙内酰脲和DMDM乙内酰脲在5~120 mg/L范围内线性关系良好,相关系数大于0.999。在两种基质空白样品中添加0.025%、0.050%、0.250%3个浓度水平时,加标回收率在96.4%~103.1%之间,相对标准偏差在0.1%~2.0%之间,方法检出限(S/N=3)分别为0.005%和0.010%。方法简单快速、准确可靠,适用于化妆品中乙内酰脲和DMDM乙内酰脲的测定。     

Behavior of pharmaceuticals, cosmetics and hormones in a sewage treatment plant

Two cosmetic ingredients (galaxolide, tonalide), eight pharmaceuticals (carbamazepine, diazepam, diclofenac, ibuprofen, naproxen, roxithromycin, sulfamethoxazole and iopromide) and three hormones (estrone, 17beta-estradiol and 17alpha-ethinylestradiol) have been surveyed along the different units of a municipal Sewage Treatment Plant (STP) in Galicia, NW Spain. Among all the substances considered, significant concentrations in the influent were only found for the two musks (galaxolide and tonalide), two anti-inflammatories (ibuprofen and naproxen), two natural estrogens (estrone, 17beta-estradiol), one antibiotic (sulfamethoxazole) and the X-ray contrast medium (iopromide), where the other compounds studied were below the limit of quantification. In the primary treatment, only the fragrances (30-50%) and 17beta-estradiol (20%) were partially removed. On the other hand, the aerobic treatment (activated sludges) caused an important reduction in all compounds detected, between 35% and 75%, with the exception of iopromide, which remained in the aqueous phase. The overall removal efficiencies within the STP ranged between 70-90% for the fragrances, 40-65% for the anti-inflammatories, around 65% for 17beta-estradiol and 60% for sulfamethoxazole. However, the concentration of estrone increased along the treatment due to the partial oxidation of 17beta-estradiol in the aeration tank.     

关于《化妆品卫生规范》（2007年版）中菌落总数测定方法的探讨

参考《中国药典》微生物检验的验证方法,以金黄色葡萄球菌、枯草芽孢杆菌和大肠埃希菌三株菌为验证菌株,分别采用营养琼脂培养基和卵磷脂、吐温80一营养琼脂培养基,对7个化妆品进行了菌落总数检验方法的验证。结果表明,卵磷脂和吐温8U可以作为中和剂部分消除化妆品中防腐剂的抑菌作用。只有2个样品适用于目前《化妆品卫生规范》2007年版的菌落总数检验方法。对于另外5个样品,分别建立了适合于它们的菌落总数检验方法。     

胶原蛋白与化妆品

本文概述了胶原蛋白的性质及在化妆品中的应用和相关的配方 ,也谈到了含有胶原蛋白的产品配方在防腐剂和香精的选择上应注意的问题     

纳米技术在化妆品中的应用

本文对纳米技术在化妆品工业中的应用进行了综述 ,并指出纳米化妆品的发展方向